Author Topic: Laburnum  (Read 3461 times)

Offline Les Symonds

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Laburnum
« on: May 11, 2014, 05:51:54 PM »
Having only ever used a few small pieces of laburnum that were bone-dry when I got them, I've really not had much experience of the stuff, but I've just bought this batch.....





It's all freshly cut and ranges between 75mm and 500mm (3" to 20") diameter, from 300mm long to a metre long (12" to 40"). The smaller pieces I will dip in hot wax, but what to do with the larger stuff....should I just paint the ends with molten wax, using a paint brush, or should I split the logs first.

If anyone out there has much experience of drying laburnum, I'd be happy to hear what you've got to offer.

Oh, and by the way, it cost me an average of £1 per piece, plus a further 60p a piece for my diesel to go an fetch it.

Les
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Offline bodrighywood

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Re: Laburnum
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2014, 06:02:58 PM »
Laburnum can split badly if not either used or treated quickly. It can also rot from the outside so you are left with just the heart wood which whilst still attractive doesn't have the dramatic appeal of the contrast. Personally I would turn it into basic blanks and coat the ends of the spindles ifg I wasn't going to use it straight away.

Pete
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Offline Bryan Milham

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Re: Laburnum
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2014, 08:08:58 PM »
I'll back up Pete's comments about cracking.

But that's am awful lot of Laburnum to render down as part turned. best of luck.
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Offline woodndesign

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Re: Laburnum
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2014, 08:17:16 PM »

It's going to be a long night .. don't be late for school.. would help if could... should be fine if done over/in a day or so.

Pete means just cut to blanks ..  ??? .. if read correctly.

Dewi
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Offline TWiG

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Re: Laburnum
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2014, 08:21:42 PM »
I get most of my wood in this style , If in winter ,I will stick it somewhere shady until I get round to cutting the larger bits  in to crude bowl  blanks with a chainsaw and then rough turning them and putting away to dry . However this time of the year with dry conditions I will wrap with pallet wrap ( industrial clingfilm ) as drying is too quick this time of year . Some can be worked but take great care in drying , and coat roughed out work with PVA. If you keep it wrapped for too long the sapwood discolours and the bark will decay . It is excellent wood for turning small thin bowls ( Bert Marsh style ) end grain with the bark on , turned and finished in one  go . I also do small thin hollow forms this way with the full dia of log with bark and sapwood forming the rim which i think look great . Also you could cut some and rough to rolling pin size billets to save for finials etc .. I made 8 knobs from laburnum for an antique restoration a while back  customer loved them !
« Last Edit: May 11, 2014, 08:28:53 PM by TWiG »

Offline bodrighywood

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Re: Laburnum
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2014, 08:24:10 PM »

It's going to be a long night .. don't be late for school.. would help if could... should be fine if done over/in a day or so.

Pete means just cut to blanks ..  ??? .. if read correctly.

Dewi


Yes. Rough turn them down between centres. A couple of minutes per log at most. What you want is for the wood to dry out along it's length slowly not through the end grain which is where it is likely to split first. You can just slather the ends as they are if you want and then wrap in paper or something and keep in a cool place. Whatever you do laburnum is dodgy so keep your fingers crossed.

Pete
Turners don't make mistakes, they have design opportunities