Problems sharpening spindle gouge

[scott1966]

Could anyone help myself I use a Proedge sorby for sharpening, I am struggling to get my spindle gouge evenly sharp. Hence resulting in poor finishing of my work I am currently learning and started some six months ago. Any help in this would be appreciated I am getting some tuition from a very helpful turner however when using his tools they are so sharp and seem so smooth in use, he uses a grinding wheel. It’s leaving me frustrated with my finish furthermore resulting in tool lines showing in my work and bumps.
Regards

[Twisted Trees]

Hi Scott

What method are you using to sharpen on the ProEdge?
What angle are you sharpening at?

If you are using the fingernail jig, are you using the one hole or 3 hole jig?

Finally what belt are you using?

[Woodcrafts]

If you have a ProEdge and are using the Tormek fingernail jig, use an allen key to adjust the angle of the knuckle. This will allow you to create a genuine long grind on your tools.
You should find this link very informative. https://www.tormek.com/media/448711/hb-10-en-v101-svd-185.pdf

One thing to remember, and I have come across several ProEdge users who did this, do NOT roll the tool flute past 3 or 9 o'clock to try and create an artificial 'long grind'. That grind would require the tool to be used in the same (dangerous) position to get that edge to contact the wood, with the bevel rubbing.

Personally I have always used a bench grinder with wheels, recently upgrading to a CBN wheel which is brilliant. Razor sharp edge and minimal long term cost. (Yes they are expensive initially but I used to replace my wheels about every 6 months and this will outlast them many times over. I dread to think how many belts that would equate to!)

I hope that helps,

[Twisted Trees]

You really only need the 240 grit belt for maintaining an edge, or if like me you just want to spend the money get the diamond belt, only had mine 4 months so far, but I know of at least one professional turner who has had the same diamond belt on for 4 years, So actually not expensive over time.

The required piece is the long grind (3 position) https://www.yandles.co.uk/robert-sorby-proedge-long-grind-jig/p5748 jig. No need to change the factory angle on the holding part of the jig. in fact it is best if you don't. Note Yandles are not the only supplier, I just used them for the picture!

Just remember that the ProSet angle is for the first hole, add 5° for second and again for 3rd. So to get a 45° on your spindle gouge set the length to 35° angle on the ProSet, then use the 3rd hole = 45°,

Personally I don't like the wing on my spindle gouges to be so long so use the first hole for them, and coincidently I like a long grind on the bowl gouge and a 55° angle so I just use the same length setting on everything. Though recently I have been playing with Stuart Batty's 40/40 grind and have modified my ProEdge so I can produce that. https://robert-sorby.freeforums.net/thread/207/stuart-me

[Bill21]

I would agree about not changing the angle on the jig. Sorby say to either use one of the three holes in the boss or change the tool extension. Sorby sell a little jig for this.

https://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/sharpening/proedge/proedge-accessories/wproset-proedge-angle-set

The real advantage of systems like the ProEdge is that unlike a bench grinder you can change grits in seconds and you also get a flat grind. I don’t have a ProEdge but do use a belt sander for sharpening tools. I use a 60 grit for reshaping tools quickly but something like a 120 grit for sharpening. For things like carving tools a 240 grit belt gives a lovely almost polished edge which is what you want for tools like that.

It’s worth pointing out that Robert Sorby have been sharpening all their tools for sale on a belt grinder for decades. This is no doubt why they introduced the ProEdge. I much prefer the flat grind you get with a belt as well.

The belts are cheap, last a long time and are available in a large range of different grits.

[julcle]

Hi Scott  --  I presume that you have been through the Robert Sorby Video
Pro-Edge Hints and Tips Martin Saben-Smith also did an online demo of the pro-edge a week or so ago but not sure if it's available on his site yet or still on youTube. Can't say that I have ever had a problem with it though. As said the 240g is all I use to keep it sharp once the shape is set.
Julian

[Redwill]

Hi.     Been using the pro edge for many years, Think it is a great bit of kit.    I use the Vee block for standard profile gouges and the finger nail attachment for that profile. Mine is an early model which has only the single hole in the boss - the bit the arm inserts into and fits on the bar.  For the  fingernail profile I use it on the factory set 120 deg's with 240 grit - (120 grit Zirconium for my HSS gouges) for maintaining the  edge      Works  very well providing regular touch up is done to keep tool sharp.    I had to do a bit of experimenting to get the right amount of protrusion thro the profile arm clamp as at first I was struggling against ending up with a too pointed tip on my spindle gouges.  Once there I made a very simple but invaluable aid for each of my gouges to ensure repeatability.  A block of wood with a series of holes drilled to the size and carefully to the depth equal to the protrusion thro the tool clamp.   Easy - tool into clamp -bring face to the block tighten all set to sharpen,      My only regret is as much as I have tried I have not mastered the art of free hand sharpening on a wheel.  If I had I would have a slow speed grinder on my bench for sure.