Applying Finish

[edbanger]

Hi All

I have a question about finishing a piece, if I've applied linseed oil can I then seal this with something like beeswax?

Thanks

Ed

[seventhdevil]

i think you can apply beeswax on anything.

[TONY MALIN]

I suppose like all questions like this one you could always try and see what happens.
I use beeswax mixed with carnauba on top of sanding sealer, or on a hardwood omit the sealer. Yew for example.
I've always assumed if you oil something that's the finish you want.
Again it rather depends on what you're making.

[edbanger]

I started running a test last night for 24 hours to make sure that it does not do anything untoward.

I linseed oiled a elm bowl that I have made for someone, but the oil does not seemed to have brought the best out in the grain so my thinking was a coat of beeswax would bring the patten of the grain up.

[seventhdevil]

if the oil didn't bring the grain out then wax wont add too much to it. probably just a slightly dull bit of wood.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Ed, for finishing with oil do not apply it to thick, I prefer BLO or Tung or teak or Danish oil over just ordinary linseed oil. I actually prefer Danish oil out of all of them. Ensure the wood to be oiled is finished as fine as you can get, no rag or tool marks and no sanding marks. ( a tip here is to damped the wood and sand again)Apply the oil and 20 minutes later wipe off the excess. Leave to dry for 24 hrs. Repeat. I routinely apply up to 25 coats for a top quality finish and then leave it to harden for a few days and then start adding you wax polish.
   The oil actually does the sealing, I only use the wax to help prevent fingerprints . The oil should be fully dry before using the wax.
 To help accentuate the grain try adding a colour wash, a yellow or green might work on Elm(french Elm has green flecks)dilute it down and give it time to dry before adding anything else/anymore stain.
Hope this is of help
Regards
John BHT

[edbanger]

Thanks John, so far it's only had 3 coats I'll build the oil up over the next week or two and see how see looks then.

[malcy]

Although not turning,  I recently made a media unit from oak for my daughter. I finished it with 9 coats of Danish oil, allowing each to dry before rubbing down with 800 grit wet or dry paper. After the last coat of oil I applied microcrystalline wax and polished up. The finish is the best I have ever achieved on a piece of furniture and was by far the easiest. I had not used an oil finish before on a project like this. After about 5 months the finish is as good as when applied. I will definitely use this again. Malcolm.

[Richard Findley]

The problem with linseed oil is that it seals the wood well but isn't a very attractive finish. Have you ever seen a shines cricket bat? I use Chestnut Finishing oil or, my preference is Hard Wax Oil. These give a much deeper high build sheen. You can top it up with wax after if you like a bit more shine.

Hope that helps

Richard

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Something I should have added is that about every 5 coats or so I cut it back very lightly with 0000 wire wool.

[edbanger]

Thanks Bowler I'll wire wool it tomorrow

[Derwent Woodturning club]

Something I should have added is that about every 5 coats or so I cut it back very lightly with 0000 wire wool.

I too use '0000' wire wool for cutting back but do not do so on timbers with high tannin content, oaks in particular, as the tannin and iron react to give the wood black spots after a while. No matter how careful you are - tack rags, cloths etc. you will always leave some debris in the pores of the wood, and it can even work its way through the applied finish.

Also bear in mind that wire wool is flammable, and, PLEASE, always CUT it, never try tearing a piece off the roll.