O'Donnell Jaws

[Paul Disdle]

Hi

Is anybody using the triple set of O'Donnell jaws made by Axminsiter (http://www.axminster.co.uk/100mm-odonnell-jaw-sets-prod804392/), I have managed so far with just a standard set of C jaws but could do with something to hold smaller pieces of timber and these look like a good buy. Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks

Paul

[Philip Greenwood]

HI Paul

I use these all the time, only 4 screws to change over and good value. This set will cover all your normal needs unless it a big project which needs large jaws.

Philip

[john taylor]

As Philip says, they are my main go to jaws and I do 90% of my work with them.

john

[Eric Harvey]

I bought the versachuck version of the main jaws,wishh I`d gone for the axminster ones now,more versatile as you have 3 options with this set,

Eric.

[Mark Sanger]

All of my work is done on 'C' jaws. The O'Donnell jaws are however brilliant but for me I would rather spend the money on something else as I get on fine with the 'C' jaws.

O'Donnell's as I say are very good. Guess it comes down to if you want to spend out, but you don't need them, they will just make life  a 'bit' easier.

 

[Nick Arnull]

Hi Paul,
I use the Jaw set a great deal, they are extremely versatile, I would add that they are very well machined and allow the creation of very small/fine spigots indeed. They are one jaw set that once you get into the habit of using  you will wonder how you ever managed without them.
Nick Arnull.

[Paul Disdle]

Thanks for the feedback I think I shall be putting them on my letter to Santa.

Mark or anybody  else -how do you hold the small pieces of timber you use for finials when you only have C jaws

Paul

[Bryan Milham]

I now use 1" Pin Jaws, but before that one trick I used (and still do for some things).

Turn your wood between centres so that it will fit into your headstock (2 MT is best for this), then fit your chuck and use the centre of the jaws to grip the wood (so not the jaws of the jaws).

You can't have more than a few inches sticking out once you need to remove your tailstock support, so do most of your rough shaping before cutting free.

[Mark Sanger]

Thanks for the feedback I think I shall be putting them on my letter to Santa.

Mark or anybody  else -how do you hold the small pieces of timber you use for finials when you only have C jaws

Paul

I don't turn finials, I carve them so this is not so much of an issue for me.  But if I want to hold small material I hold it inside of the central part of the 'C' jaws which closes to around 15mm.

There is not as much clamping length as with the O'Donnell jaws, but if I need to turn anything over any length then I just bring up the tail centre.

Works for me so I have not needed to invest in a new set of jaws.  I have four chucks, three sit on the side as I never change jaws. This works for me,others work differently. On the rare occassion I get a lot of small pieces to do I do the same as Bryan and use pin jaws. This is rare so normaly I don't need to.

[Andy Coates]

Like Mark, I do 90% + of all my work on "c" jaws. I have seven Axminster Super precision chucks, each with a different jaw set, and whilst I have two O'Donnell sets I use them far less than the C set.

 

[Richard Findley]

"C" jaws all the way for me too. I've turned a burr oak bowl, 20" by 4" deep on them without a problem, as well as little nut bowls. I bought some "F" jaws but don't use them much. The only others I use a lot are the stepped engineer type which I use all the time. I find them especially handy as my Wadkin has a solid headstock so I can't use a Jacobs chuck in the headstock, so these allow me to hold drills and little bits like Apple stalks etc.

Cheers

Richard