Eucalyptus burr vase

[Les Symonds]

I've had this piece of eucalyptus burr in the workshop for a while and have been thinking of what to do with it, so i took my inspiration from Mark Sanger's recently published article and had a go at making a vase out of it.  The finished piece is 6.5" (165mm) tall x 3.25" (80mm) diameter, and is the limit of what I can hollow out at the moment. My Sorby hollowing tool has a round-section blade with a flat ground on the bottom of it, and the flat is only just over 6" long, so I can't go any deeper until I think of a way around this.

As so often seems to be the case, my camera lies a little and the colour is somewhat paler than it is in real life. Also, in the pics where the vase is upright, it appears a little straight-sided, but in reality, it tapers by 15mm from the widest point (one-third of the way up), to the top. I found it surprisingly good to turn. Having looked at the grain, I assumed that it would break-out and tear a lot, but it was actually quite sweet to turn and it sanded easily.

The finish, so far, is 2 coats of Danish Oil, but I'll now give it a few coats of Finishing Oil over the next few days.

Look closely into the first picture (top right) and you'll see 2 chipmunk faces and some paw-prints!







Comments and criticisms always welcome....Les

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Hi Les, well done.
I would like to see a bit more detail on the foot as at the moment it just looks like the chucking point.
Otherwise I like it.
Regards
John BHT

[Les Symonds]

Hi John....I struggled with that! It certainly wasn't a chucking point, but I take your point. I'd left about 15mm of spare stock between the spigot for the chuck and the base, and for a while I was going to make a proper foot on it, but really couldn't make my mind up, so I referred to Mark Sanger's article in 'Woodturner' and did it the same way that he did. It's actually no more than 3mm and when the vase is standing, it's pretty much invisible, just enough to lift it so that the curve into the base is more visible.

Thanks for the compliment...Les

[bodrighywood]

To a wood turner no doubt it would seem a chucking point to but to the average person on the street it will look just like a foot. I usually put some texturing or a couple of rings into the base of the foot when I intend to leave it like you have just to finish it off but I don't think yours would be a problem for most non turners.

Pete

[Revopix]

A beautifully figured piece of wood and a pleasing shape, well turned. As for the foot (base) it's fine, a simple finish that works well. Myself I reverse chuck most of my work on the lathe and form a ring on the out side of the foot for the piece to stand on, some times a decorative ring or two can be pleasing.
If you had not shown us so much we would not be having this conversation.But this is what a forum is about, we all gain.   

[Jo Winter2]

Hi,
a very nice wood and a wonderful simple shape.
Congratulation, well done.
Jo

[Bryan Milham]

Lez,

a stunning piece of wood, you've brought the grain out well and a simple but good shape to set it off.

[Les Symonds]

Cheers guys....thanks for that.

[woodndesign]

Will be lovely to see once you've got the final coats on, at the moment it's one stunning piece.

Chipmunks .. throught it more like friendly Welsh spirits or one of them being the Esso Blue Flame, was that the Gas one as well ..  .. Wise owl an his eyes are on the opposite side of the same image.

Cheers   David

[Mark Sanger]

Hi Les

A beautiful simple form and a beautiful wood, glad the article was was of use.

In relation to your hollowing tool, is it the one with the toothpick type cutter with a straight bar. If so I have the Crown version but use it by turning the bar upside down and replacing the cutter so the round bar is what rests on the tool rest. My preference is to use a round bar hollower as I can shape the cut instead of being fixed to the angle the flat section dictates.

IE if I want a gentle controllable cut when initially entering a deep vessel to contact the wood I rotate the tool shaft anti-clockwise to trail the cutter making the cut less aggressive. Once I have picked up the cut I rotate back clockwise until the cut is controllable or back on horizontal.

if your tool is a cranked one then this does not apply.

If your tool is not one of those I described apologies for the waffle. 

[Les Symonds]

Thanks for the info, Mark....I'm really pleased that you liked it. My hollowing tool is, as you first thought, the type with the 'toothpick' cutter, so I'll follow your suggestion.

Les

[Mark Sanger]

Thanks for the info, Mark....I'm really pleased that you liked it. My hollowing tool is, as you first thought, the type with the 'toothpick' cutter, so I'll follow your suggestion.

Les

Certainly try it out but be mindful that the handle length will probably be designed for the overhang of 6 inches, you may find a longer handle or extension helpful. But the handle may be longer so it will be fine.

If you have any problems let me know.

[Les Symonds]

Update....several coats of finishing oil later...





I don't like to build up too much of a 'shine' with oil, so tend not to leave too much oil on the surface during each coat. I've found that if I oil it quite heavily, leave the oil to go tacky, then wipe with a rag that is wet with oil, the bulk of each coat is removed, leaving just very thin coats to build up - which gives me the satin finish that I want.

Les

[Bryan Milham]

Well that's certainly 'Popped the Grain'.

[Les Symonds]

Yep Bryan....nice bit of chatoyance (to quote you) going on!

Les