Skew Chisel

[Paul Disdle]

I am looking for some tool tips for using the skew chisel.

Why are the three profiles? Rectangular, oval and round? Is anyone easier for me to start with? (I have 4x rectangular and 1x oval)

I have been given a range of different sized skew chisels, would I be right in assuming the size of the chisel shares a relationship with the diameter of the piece of wood being turned?

What are the general recommendation of what determines leading with the toe or heel of the tool?

I appreciate that a lot of this is personal preference but reasons why you like one way or the other would be a good starting point for me.

Thanks

Paul

Here is where I am with my skew practise, only one corkscrew this time.

[thebowlerhattedturner]

Hello Paul,
              I normally start my students off with the oval skew as it is slightly easier to use.I don't have a round one but have seen them being used on a youth training day and the youngsters got on very well with them(but that could be an age thing!!)
    I don't usually care what size chisel I use but as a rule of thumb I would use a wide one on larger diameter stock as you have suggested. The 1/2 skew is a good one to practice with. I do say to people though that don't be too bothered about learning the skew to begin with because you have many other chisels to learn first and once you are proficient with and understand how and why they cut the way they do the skew will come naturally to you.
Regards
John BHT

[Bryan Milham]

Paul,the skew is open to more legend and lore, myths and secrets than any other turning tool.

There are people who swear by a curved cutting edge, or as you've noted by a round bar made into a skew.  I'll tell you the one and only secret you need to be able to use the skew - Practice!

The reason some people say that there adaptation is the best is because they've fallen into that way of using it and practised through use. If anyone tells you any different, just remember this one fact.

Having said that you still need some pointers in the use of the thing. Lets try a few simple ideas.

With a permanent marker draw a line from the centre of the bevel, part way down the blade on both sides.

1st Rule, when cutting never cut above that line compared to the tool position on the rest.

2nd Rule, place the tool slightly high on the rotating wood, draw back and raise the handle slowly watching for the bevel to meet the wood and a shaving to appear, hold and then push gently, the cut to commence.

3rd Rule, use both hands equally cutting to the left and the right, you'll develop muscle memory (tool control) that will pay dividends in the future.

4th Rule, never float your skew in from free air to the wood, always start on the wood.

Following these, you'll learn to use the skew to plane the wood smooth and round, and a degree of control. From there you can progress to long slow sweeping curves, like you see in banisters and the like. Practice these until you can do it quite automatically - Beads etc. can come a little later as you'll have the basic control you need to progress.

I'd also suggest that you invest in a copy of Woodturning: A Foundation Course by Keith Rowley http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Foundation-Course/dp/1861081146. It is generally considered the definitive book for learning to turn and covers the skew very well.

Rule 5, The most important thing - Yes, I'm afraid you will make a lot of spirals in learning, and even occasionally once you consider yourself skilled with the Skew - we all do. The reason is generally because you trail the bevel too close to the wood and catch it above the position of the cut, so when rolling curves or beads keep the skew turned above the line of the cut.

[woodndesign]

That's a good price, looking down the also buys I noticed http://www.amazon.co.uk/Two-One-Woodturning-Two-one/dp/1840922435/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y ..  It's a good reference book with more up to date tools, even with being a 2000 publication.

Cheers David

[Paul Disdle]

I have Keith's book which I bought before buying any tools. The other book looks interesting I will try the library for it.
Thanks for the tips.

Thanks

Paul

[Woodcrafts]

I am looking for some tool tips for using the skew chisel.

Why are the three profiles? Rectangular, oval and round? Is anyone easier for me to start with? (I have 4x rectangular and 1x oval)

Hi Paul,

You've already had some excellent tips on using the skew, but may I add one more, as you say you've got 4x rectangular skews. If these are quite old and the rectangle has sharp corners, take a file and round off the ones on the short point side. The reason is that the skew is often used slightly lifted off the toolrest at one side, so a sharp corner will dig into your toolrest. And a sharp corner will find any nicks in the toolrest, causing your cut to stutter as you try to move steadily along the rest.
Newer tools usually have these edges rounded over and are referred to as rolled edge skews, although the cross section is still predominantly rectangular.
Regarding preferred size of skew, I prefer a one inch oval. Smaller than that and there isn't much change in position from a 'nice' cut, to where the cut moves up the edge and the long point digs in. Larger than that and the tool can get a bit heavy to use. Good for damping vibration but harder to use for delicate beads etc.
One other tip. Many people find raising the toolrest slightly higher than you use for other tools, makes the skew easier to use. It's not necessary but if it helps you get used to a tool, it may be worth trying.
Finally, I will echo the other posts  - practise, practise, practise, and make sure you keep the skew VERY sharp.
Have fun,

[woodndesign]

The best way to learn to use the tools properly is to get tuition from a good woodturner.
And because somebody has been woodturning for many years don't assume they are good woodturners a lot are not.
I suggest you have a day or two with a professional turner before you get into too many bad habits.
The RPT.Register of professional turners keep a list of turners who teach.Get in touch with them and find out a turner in your area that gets good feedback.

Regards George

   ....

[Paul Disdle]

Thanks George tuition is something I am exploring. With regard to the RPT list there is no feedback on there and they state we do not assess the people listed for teaching ability so how does one know if they are good or not. I am fortunate that Andy Coates is the person closest to me and having seen him demo, he appears to be a good communicator of the art.

Another question is how do you assess bad habits as everybody seems to have there own style? are there some common beginner pitfalls?

Would you agree that if you like a turners work and they will show you how to do it that's a good starting place.  Is technique or the end product more important

Thanks for all the help its helping my learning curve no end

Paul

[bodrighywood]

Being a god turner doesn't make you a good tutor. As George states there is a system for 'students' to give feedback when they go to a tutor. If you have experience of or recommendations for Andy go for it. Save you a lot of time, anguish and wasted wood.

pete

[Eric Harvey]

Paul,do you belong to the Norwich woodturners club,if so any of us there who enjoy using the skew chisel would be happy to give you some tips,coaching etc;if you don`t then come along to a meeting,we meet on the first Friday of the month,7.30 pm start,regards,

Eric.

[Paul Disdle]

Hi Eric

Yes I do belong to the club since the beginning of the year. Maybe we can meet at the March meeting and sort out some coaching for me.

Thanks

Paul

[Eric Harvey]

yep that will be fine,regards,

Eric.

[Philip Greenwood]

Hi Paul

Andy will put you on the right track with the Skew, it a very good tool to use.

You can be sure any member of the RPT will give you good advice and will not show you any bad habits, As George says a feedback form is given to all people attending a course and this is check to ensure anyone attending a course is given good advice and has a well maintained workshop.


Philip

[Nick Arnull]

Hi Paul,
 I have a couple of points that I would like to verify for you regarding some of the comments previously posted.

 The RPT (The register of professional Turners) tuition/demonstration feedback system is entirely voluntary and not all members participate.
To find out who is teaching locally in your area, talk to members of the Norwich woodturning club many of whom are past students of mine and other local tutors. I feel it would be of great benefit for you to invest in some, one to one tuition, for a couple of hours or depending upon your budget 1 or 2 days to answer and resolve your questions.

To answer some of your questions regarding the skew chisel would take far too long here; I have however given you some brief answers below. Alternatively I will be demonstrating sharpening and the use of the Skew Chisel at the Norwich woodturning club in July.

Flat skew chisel = The traditional form. Great for creating details planing and general use.

Oval Skew chisel =   A relatively modern version created to try to make things easier, but as a result  is less stable in use as the strength has been removed,  it will when sharpened correctly produce a sharper edge   and consequently is probably the best tool for making  pummel cuts in my opinion.

The round Skew chisel = The round Skew Chisel has been around for quite some time but it has more recently been heavily promoted by Gary Rance, it is often favored by production turners for its ease of use as it rolls better than any of the above and can be an extremely  versatile tool in the right hands.( I would also add it will be less prone to catches than any of the others)

Size. The size of the tool is generally of little consequence however the larger the tool  the easier it will be to use when learning, that said if turning a small finial I would not be using an 1 1/2” Skew.

My personal choice for must have basic Skews are detailed below:
1” flat skew:  This could be used for creating dovetails to match the chuck jaws being used, as well as all the usual cuts.

1” oval Skew chisel: Best tool for pummel cuts.

 3/8” round: A great all round versatile Skew chisel.

Hope this is of help to you
Nick Arnull

[Paul Disdle]

I noticed a radiused skew on a site today, could anyone enlighten me to the pros and cons of one of these?

Paul