True Grit / Sanding / Finishing

[morpheus83uk]

Hello,

I am fairly new to turning so I am still finding my way around the tools, finishing sanding etc..

I am looking at the True Grit abrasive paste and it seems like it cuts down on sanding. So only sand to 240 grit them sanding sealer and then true grit. As it contains beeswax I assume I can't put any additional finish on top of it like melamine lacquer or would it just be another wax finish such as microcrystalline?

The other question I have is around the Chestnut Nyweb pads. I believe these can be used to continue sanding past 400 grit and before the sanding sealer? Then use the orange one? Well the finest to sand back the sanding sealer?

And finally I have purchased some wood wax 22 as it was recommended to be a good finish for a beginner. How does it hold up against things such as finger marks and things when making bowls or say a tea light holder? I haven't made these but just using them as examples as I want a good simple finish I can apply to start with. I also assume I can apply it over other finished to make it glossy?

Apologies for all the questions!

Thank You in advance!

[Bill21]

Abrasive waxes have been around for a long time. If you haven’t bought any yet just get the cheapest you can find. Or even make your own, it’s very easy.

There should be little if any wax left after the process so you may well be able to use more finishes afterwards than you may expect if it’s used on something like sanding sealer. If it’s used on bare wood then I’d only use another wax product just to be on the safe side.

My go to wax that doesn’t leave fingerprints is Microcrystalline Wax. I’ve not tried Wood Wax 22.

I only use the grey non woven abrasives from the likes of Wickes for de-nibbling sanding sealer.

My standard finish for most stuff is to sand through the grades to 400 grit, apply cellulose sanding sealer, de-nibb then apply Microcrystalline wax. Sometimes though I’ll use Liberon finishing oil then wax again.

You may find this interesting, particularly the part about spraying lacquer on top of wax. I’ve tried it and Jimmy is right. 😉

https://youtu.be/Mjd2rP9qX5Q?si=Rof0-Amm58UQyw3N

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you for your reply!

I have the woodwax 22 so I was hoping that I can get some good use out of it for things such as decorative stuff which isn't to be handled then and maybe get a small tin of the microcrystalline wax for stuff to be handled like fruit bowls and things as I have read it's food safe so can be put ont op of mineral oil.

Yes I have seen about finishing oil I was wondering if wood wax would be good over the top of it but I believe it produces a good finish without. What advantage does adding the wax over the top have? Just additional protection?

Thanks

[Wood spinner]

I have used Wood Wax 22 and for me it does leave finger marks, I agree Microcrystalline Wax is a better Finnish.

[Bill21]

What advantage does adding the wax over the top have? Just additional protection?

Thanks

I just do it to add an extra bit of shine to the piece. I suppose though it does add a little extra protection?

I’m not sure about the finger print issue but I’ve used some neutral shoe polish (parade gloss) on a couple of pieces and it does seem to give a better shine than Microcrystalline.

[GBF]

For most of the information you need

https://chestnutproducts.co.uk/

Regards George

[Richard_C]

The chestnut site does have useful information, if you click on various options (perhaos not as intuitive as some sites) you get loads of helpful leaflets and 'finishing school' videos which are useful when you are starting out.

I rather like woodwax 22, it gives a very nice shine, a softer look than spray finishes but deep and rich.  I use it on things that will be looked at rather than regularly handled, and agree that microcrystalline is better for fingerprint protection.

The advantage of true grit and similar is the absence of dust as you do the final 'sanding', you can follow it with an oil or wax but I don't think its really practical to follow it with a spray or varnish.  Some say you can if you carefully clean the true grit carrier waxes off with spirit, but I'm not convinced, always risk of residue deep in the grain.  You might as well stick with conventional abrasive if that's your plan.

A lot of oils and some waxes cure over time, they might seem 'dry' after 10 minutes but they do harden some more in a few days.  If you can leave a few days between coats of (particularly) oil you will get better results and less chance of a horrid gloopy mess as 'coat 2' dissolves 'coat 1' .  Been there, done that

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you all for your input I really appreciate it!

As it's probably going to be handled I will apply some microcrystalline on the top to give it a bit more of a shine and also a bit of protection. I will keep the wood wax for specifically decorative objects. How does it handle with small amounts of handling I assume it's fine? For example taking it out of a box and things like that? And I assume you can wipe the wood wax down to remove finger marks?

On the finishing school I didn't know that existed so I will go and check that out too!

Has anyone out anything over the chestnut finishing oil? If so what? I have found after the Harrogate show the 1000 grit Nyweb pads give a good smooth finish so I am unsure if another finish should be applied after such as one of the waxes? As I assume I would need to buff it off? But I have already removed the tenon on the bowl.

Thanks

James

[Paul Hannaby]

You can't just wipe down the beeswax based wax finishes to remove finger marks because the cause of some of the marks is the removal of some of the wax by the fingers in contact with it. Beeswax has a fairly low melting point and heat from your hand can be enough to soften and remove some of the wax so after handling, the finish can be affected and would need re-waxing to restore it.

Microcrystalline wax, on the other hand, has a higher melting point and is unaffected by the heat from handling so the shine remains.

I stopped using any beeswax based finishes for things that were going to get a lot of handling many years ago for exactly this reason.

[morpheus83uk]

Thanks Paul.

I am just trying to work out in my head now how woodwax22 would be useful for anything?

Thanks

James

[Twisted Trees]

Thanks Paul.

I am just trying to work out in my head now how woodwax22 would be useful for anything?

Thanks

James

beeswax based products are far superior for flatwork where you struggle to get the speed / friction heat for higher melting point waxes. but like Paul I stopped using them for anything that can be picked up in favour of Carnauba / Microcrystalline

[Paul Hannaby]

beeswax based products are far superior for flatwork where you struggle to get the speed / friction heat for higher melting point waxes. but like Paul I stopped using them for anything that can be picked up in favour of Carnauba / Microcrystalline

I would strongly disagree with this statement about beeswax being superior for anything! Microcrystalline wax can be buffed to a shine by hand. There is no need for speed, just enough friction to flash off the solvents. The difference in melting point isn't that great but it's enough to prevent the microcrystalline wax finish being disrupted by the heat from handling, which is where the beeswax finishes fall down.