Burnisher

[Bill21]

Anyone tried one of these?

https://www.fine-tools.com/G307858.html

[Twisted Trees]

No but it looks interesting, hopefully it will be at Harrogate next weekend.

[Bill21]

I saw it, or something like it years ago but was put off by the price. I’m wondering if I’ve got a broken carbide end mill somewhere with which I can make my own. I can’t reshape the carbide but I could mount it at an angle which may suffice? You can actually buy replacement carbide for the Veritas as well though.

[jay]

   Yes I had one some years ago bought from L V I found it a waste of space and sold it on .I found by grinding  alone and grinding with the scraper upside down gives me the kind of burr I like to work with .  An old exhaust valve can be used to make a similar item if one wants to experiment. However others may well get on better with it than I. 

[Bill21]

I’ve done a search for reviews on it. Most people can’t seem to get on with it. But several others, one of which had to contact Veritas to find out what he was doing wrong, swear by them. Amongst other things tool presentation is apparently different for a scraper with a honed burr.

This document provides more information.

https://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/scrapers1.html

I think I’ll buy a replacement Veritas carbide 10° pin at some point and make my own base for it.
I like a challenge and it won’t be an expensive experiment.

[Les Symonds]

Never used one, never felt the need. I read the blurb in the link and Veritas claim that with traditional tool grinding..."the finish of the workpiece is poor, requiring heavy sanding". That's nonsense and the very fact that they resort to outlandish comments such as this is what would stop me buying such a novelty.

Les

[Bill21]

Excluding personal preference, what you turn and the wood used will have an impact on how it’s turned and the tools used.

I saw a demo a while back where a piece of Box was being turned. It was suggested that you could get an acceptable finish straight off the tool. It was further suggested that the grit used to sharpen the tool could make a noticeable difference on a fine grain timber like box. A tool sharpened on 80 grit would not produce a finish as good as one sharpened on say 240 grit.
I’ve also seen comments before about honing spindle gouges.

These comments came to mind when I saw this jig. The possible advantages of the jig were further reinforced when I read the article I linked earlier and saw the pictures. A smooth burr produced by burnishing it seemed to me, must produce a better finish than straight off the grinder? As I sometimes like to make small items from fairly dense timbers like Yew, Laburnum, box and African Blackwood when I can get them it seemed worth further investigation. I can get a Veritas carbide pin for just £11.75 plus postage. I have scraps to make the rest myself. Given that it’s been said that you can burnish a scraper several times before it needs to be taken back to the grinder is another bonus. I like the idea of mounting the jig on a piece of wood suitably sized to fit the ways of your lathe to make it a quick and easy process. You can see the setup in this video.

https://youtu.be/eWklzwQFqfU?si=LMMSQAAIDtqcUqeM

None of this of course is likely to be of any interest to those that like turning large bowls and then power sanding them! 
Each to their own. 

Another source of information for the more open minded.

https://youtu.be/FAGXHpnrkcA?si=1OeiLad2GlATDLdf

[Paul Hannaby]

You can save your self the cost of the carbide pin too. A piece of HSS or tool steel (High carbon steel) would work just as well. The choice of metal is one that won't be scored by the edge of the tool you are trying to burnish. The remains of an old gouge or something like that would be ideal.

Rather than relying on a tapered pin, if you just have a straight piece of rod, you could drill the hole for it at whatever angle you wanted. Or, just put the pin in a vice at whatever angle you want and burnish the tool over the top of the vice. No need for any base or complications!

I rarely use scrapers other than for hollowing and many of those are sharpened with a credit card hone, which gives a very fine burr. Perhaps when I have time to experiment I might try a comparison between the usual edge and a raised burr to see if either are significantly better than the other.

[Bill21]

I did consider mounting a carbide rod (I’m sure I have an old broken carbide mill somewhere) at an angle but it won’t work on one of my favourite scrapers due to the curve. You should be able to see the problem below.  I have the material to make a base and I really like the idea of using the jig on the lathe as I mentioned earlier. £11.75 for an angled carbide pin is not expensive in my view.

Edit: old image removed for some reason? I did see this in the document I linked earlier which is interesting though.

[Bill21]

Small update. I bought a 10° Veritas carbide pin and mounted it in a plate. I’ve ground and honed a scraper and pressed a burr on it with the tool. I now need to try it out on something.

I think it’s worth saying that it’s been a quick and easy process using a belt grinder as I can quickly change grits - the edge of my scraper is now mirror polished. I think you’d struggle to prepare a scraper in this way using a bench grinder. It’s suggested that the burr formed in this way is not only stronger but produces a superior finish. I’ll let you know!

[Wood spinner]

I have one of the plated , Didn't know what it was , several tidy up times it nearly went in the bin
May give it a try next time I find it again 

[Bill21]

I forgot to say, this is the fine belt I used, It leaves a great finish. Not normally needed for turning tools of course, I bought it for honing carving tools.

[Bill21]

I tried a round nose scraper today with a burnished burr and it worked very well on some sycamore. I think I’m a convert now.