Screws!

[burywoodturners]

I have recentlt bought a set of Record coles type jaws, can anyone tell me whay the screws are so long, they bottom out about half way along their length?

[Bill21]

It’s been a while since I bought mine but as I remember it came with several sets of screws. Some of them are for fitting the rubber buffers and are longer than the jaw mounting screws.

Edit: I did hear about this some time ago. You can mount standard jaws on top of the Cole jaws on the chuck with the longer screws.

[Twisted Trees]

Edit: I did hear about this some time ago. You can mount standard jaws on top of the Cole jaws on the chuck with the longer screws.

I have also heard this, but am confused as to why you would want to have the cole jaws and another set of jaws in play at the same time. Answer is use the screws that were already in the chuck!

[Bill21]

I have also heard this, but am confused as to why you would want to have the cole jaws and another set of jaws in play at the same time. Answer is use the screws that were already in the chuck!

Yes agreed. I’m not sure why you’d want to do this either!?

[burywoodturners]

Thanks, it seems that I have free set of screws.
The jaws are cast alluminimum and consequently brittle. I will use the shorter one though

[Richard_C]

Put a set of 35 or 50mm standard jaws on top of the coles jaws.  Mount blank with a screw chuck insert held in the combined coles/standard jaws and shape the outside as normal, bit nerve-jangling as you get closer to the coles jaws, reverse and hold a tenon in the standard jaws, finish the upper part of the outside and the inside of the  bowl then (provided the inside depth/diameter is big enough) you can immediately reverse the bowl again over the standard jaws and and onto the coles jaws and take the tenon off without undoing any chuck components.  Handy if you have a few to do but I admit its a bit of a niche and is pretty irrelevant if you own more than one chuck.   I normally fit mine alone, just using the standard length screws 'cos the spinning coles jaws look scary if they are not holding anything.

[Bill21]

I’ve tried several methods of remounting a bowl to finish the foot. Without doubt the most secure method so far is to use a doughnut chuck. Cheap and easy to make as well if you have a spare *faceplate.

*You can get away with a wooden block on the back gripped in a chuck but using a faceplate is much safer and more accurate in my view.

[Twisted Trees]

I’ve tried several methods of remounting a bowl to finish the foot. Without doubt the most secure method so far is to use a doughnut chuck. Cheap and easy to make as well if you have a spare *faceplate.

*You can get away with a wooden block on the back gripped in a chuck but using a faceplate is much safer and more accurate in my view.

I Like the idea, but fails when you have a delicate uneven natural edge there is no single answer vacuum chucks, friction plates, cole/longworth, jam chucks or doughnut even 60 grit in a power sander they all fall short somewhere.

Trick is to have several methods available and one of them will work

[Bill21]

I was making the comparison to Cole Jaws, which you can’t use either on a natural edge bowl.
I don’t actually turn many bowls and have no interest in natural edge anyway.
A Doughnut Chuck can also be used to finish off hollow forms and vases. 

Edit: Thinking about this further I think you’re wrong Pete, you probably could use a Doughnut Chuck to turn the foot on a natural edge bowl if you support the centre of the piece with some sort of padding.

[Bill21]

I found this picture online some time ago of what a Doughnut Chuck can do, with care. 

[Bill21]

Here you go Pete. 

[Twisted Trees]

Thanks Bill, that is similar to what I had in mind after your post about adding padding, but I was thinking various height "posts" in timber not PVC.

[Bill21]

I found this image online showing the use of thick wall pipe.