Wet or dry sanding ?

[Dancie]

Recently I carried out a full deep clean of my garage workshop.

On the upper shelves, which I’ve sort of ignored, there was a layer of sawdust, not at Quentin Crisp levels but enough to be annoying.

I do wear a respirator and when sanding I have an extractor hose close to the object.

My question is about wet sanding, I’ve tried it previously but I didn’t find it as effective as dry sanding.

Are there any tips you can give me please, does the oil on the abrasive effect the wax you may use as a final coating, is there any preferred oil, does anyone agree with me that dry sanding is more effective or is it about the same or even if wet sanding is preferred?

[Bill21]

I’ve not tried wet sanding so interested to see the response.

[otterbank]

I believe lemon oil is used as it is more compatibility with other finishes. I’ve just used Danish oil as that’s the finish I use anyway.
I’ve also wet sanded with water if turning wet timber. Obviously need to make sure all electrics are protected. Mick O’Donnell showed it well in one of his videos. I don’t do it a lot but of the two I prefer  water. It is easier to wash out the abrasive and doesn’t end up in such a sticky slurry.
Michael

[BrianH]

In my world that 'Sticky slurry' is exactly what you are looking for. I cant use cellulose so I oil finish everything. I normally sand dry down to 180 before oiling and sanding again, while wet. I rarely feel the need to go beyond 320 or 400 grit and always slow the lathe between each grit landing up at walking pace.
That slurry is a mixture of oil and sanding dust and the slow speed/fine grit drives it into the nooks and crannies of the timber leaving a silky smooth result. When dry the danish oil can be overcoated with wax if a shinier finish is required.
Brian

[otterbank]

Brian, I agree the oil slurry helps with the finish of the timber. I just found it a bit messy in general. Both water and oil sanding will keep the dust down though.
Michael

[BrianH]

Micheal
Your description doesn't quite chime with my experience. I wonder if you are following Mr O'D and dipping into a dish/container of oil and then splashing it everywhere?
 I cover the lathe bed before using a small cheapy paint brush (permanently sealed through the lid of a suitable sealable container of danish) to lightly coat the timber with the lathe stopped and repeating until saturation point is achieved. With lathe at walking pace I then sand, leave for 15mins or so before wiping off the excess oil. Repeat with finer grade if required. Once used in this fashion the abrasive will appear clogged with dried oil but my results suggest this is softened by the new oil in subsequent uses. Time consuming it certainly is but the silky feel to the finished project makes it worthwhile IMHO.
I should also mention that there is a trap awaiting the unwary in attaching more importance to the appearance of the sanding process than the results on the finished piece....... I wonder how I am so aware of that trap???     
All the best
Brian

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

The other thing you might consider is sanding with paste wax. Dip a flexible abrasive into the wax and "sand it in". This is an old method, favoured by Americans but just as effective this side of the pond too.Same principles apply.

[BrianH]

I had a long discussion on this very point with a well known 'Name' some years ago, while preparing an article for publication. Needless to say we both agreed and disagreed in equal measure and no definitive conclusion was ever reached. If he recognises himself lets leave him to 'out' himself and perhaps let us know what he is using now!!!!!

I agree that sanding with either lubricant is equally effective (and better than dry sanding!)but suggest that using paste wax means you are initially sealing the timber with a softer material (by comparison with oil which hardens into a coating which begins below the surface of the wood), which is more liable to damage and likely to have a shorter acceptable lifespan. Also starting with wax restricts your later choices as cured oil can remain a stand-alone satin finish or have a shinier wax finish added if/when required.
Both materials will, of course, need maintenance throughout the life of the piece but I suggest paste wax will need that TLC sooner and more often than the oil.

All the best everybody
Brian

[Dancie]

Many thanks to all that replied - stay safe