Illusionary basketware

[turningal]

Have watched several ‘you tube’ videos, mostly from the USA, I am about to start on an adventure into this topic, I have gathered the necessary tools, d-way beading tools, Fabre castell pens, razor tip pyrography tips, so I’m ready to go! A couple of questions, choice of wood? In the USA, much mention is made of ‘Bradford pear’, no idea what that is in English, choice of finish without ruining the entire job by colour bleed or hazing. Oh and is anyone else out there ‘having a go’ especially after Richard Findley’s challenge in Woodturning magazine?

[bodrighywood]

Basically wood with as little grain as possible. Think of oak & ash, they have obvious grain and are no good for pyro or that sort of more intricate work. Sycamore, some beech, maple, pear, lime are all good.

Pete

[Derek]

I would go as Pete above said for wood choice. Just a side note burn the lines first this will help reduce the chances of leaking and don't use a very runny type colour medium.

[bodrighywood]

Just to show what you can do with sycamore this is one we did some time ago. The pyro ki done with refined razor tips (sharpened to a scalpel edge) amd the colouring is done with calligraphy inks. As Derek says the burning stops the ink seeping and the lack of grain allows you to get a clean cut and / or burn line.

Pete

[Bill21]

Much will depend on the type of colourant used but I’ve found Pyrography won’t eliminate wood stain spreading completely, although it does help.

[bodrighywood]

Much will depend on the type of colourant used but I’ve found Pyrography won’t eliminate wood stain spreading completely, although it does help.

Which stain spreads through the burn Bill? Not had a [rob;em with water or oil based colourants over the past 5 years so curious as to which managed to leach.

Pete

[Bill21]

Much will depend on the type of colourant used but I’ve found Pyrography won’t eliminate wood stain spreading completely, although it does help.

Which stain spreads through the burn Bill? Not had a [rob;em with water or oil based colourants over the past 5 years so curious as to which managed to leach.

Pete

It was one of the standard spirit stains, probably Ronseal or similar. I Pyrographed a map of the world on a wooden sphere then very carefully coloured in the land masses. Some of the stain went under the Pyrographed areas.    If I did it again I’d try something thicker to stop it soaking in so much.

[BrianH]

Ive never had stain bleed past a burn line but I wonder if, when we burn side grain we 'Cauterise' the ends whereas if Bills globe had exposed end grain perhaps the stain was wicked down, beneath the burnt area, before finding its way back to the surface via the adjacent grain?
Brian

[bodrighywood]

Could be. All the pyror work Mo & I do is on side grain. Also usually wood such as sycamore, beech, loime etc so little chance of the seepage. The end bgrain theory makes sense.

pete

[turningal]

Hi Folks
Thanks for your replies, I will be using Fabre castell Pitt pens, which are acid free, waterproof ,Indian ink to colour the work, and burning in all lines, however my main concern is the finish after all colouring has been done, spray perhaps but what base would you suggest, acrylic or cellulose? I’ve no experience in spray finishes but I’m guessing that in this instance it will be my only choice.

[bodrighywood]

I leave the finished piece for 24 hour to make sure the ink etc has dried fully then wipe a coat of microcrystalline polish on it with a soft cloth or tissue. Leave for about 20 minutes and repeat. Do this as often as you like. The more often you do it the better. I don't personally like lacquers etc as after time so many of them can flake and look awful. The wax allows a lot of handling (which a piece like this will get)

Pete

[Bill21]

Hi Folks
Thanks for your replies, I will be using Fabre castell Pitt pens, which are acid free, waterproof ,Indian ink to colour the work, and burning in all lines, however my main concern is the finish after all colouring has been done, spray perhaps but what base would you suggest, acrylic or cellulose? I’ve no experience in spray finishes but I’m guessing that in this instance it will be my only choice.

I think if you want to use an Acrylic or Cellulose base then you may need Acrylic or Cellulose colours to go on top? If you want to use the pens suggested then I’d do some test pieces including the final finish to ensure it all works together.

[bodrighywood]

Acrylics will give a harder look, more like oil paint whereas inks can be blended as in a wash. Be careful using them with the pens though as the medium in the pens can react with acrylics and end up mixing and giving you a different colour all together. Finish is best as I said with a microcrystalline polish. Lacquers and varnishes simply don't look very good, they give a false plastic look to the work. 

Pete

[Bill21]

I hope it’s ok to post this link.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/what-finish-do-you-use-on-a-basket-illusion.14688/

Lots of discussion on finishing and it seems some use a clear lacquer whilst others prefer oil.

Doing an image search, some projects use muted colours and look quite dull. Others have very bright colours and look shiny so there seems to be lots of different ways of doing it. I have to say I like them all!