Long drills

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

I have had a special job come in and I need to drill a tapering hole nearly 1 metre long  tapering from about 8 mm to virtually nothing. I have some drill bits that will allow me to drill a series of stepped holes which the customer will be happy with but I am making a long shanked spear point drill for the bottom bit and wondered if anyone can either send me a picture of the cutting end or tell me the angle of the spear head for the straightest cut? This is an old tool which I used to use but have not seen for many years, I have forged the head this evening and will file the rest to shape tommorrow but it is a lot of effort (for 3 holes) and I want to get it right so that I have it for future use.

[Bryan Milham]

John,
I can't help you with a picture or other details of what the lead point or cutting edge would look like but I can make a suggestion.
I have a very friendly engineering works who make specials for me, they have even passed me work where the job requires a wooden input.
If I was faced with the same issue, I'd go ask them. Cutting edge grinding is the sort of thing machinist's learn early in their career.

[seventhdevil]

surely the torque on something that thin and long is just going to twist or snap it???

[Lazurus]

I have had a special job come in and I need to drill a tapering hole nearly 1 metre long  tapering from about 8 mm to virtually nothing. I have some drill bits that will allow me to drill a series of stepped holes which the customer will be happy with but I am making a long shanked spear point drill for the bottom bit and wondered if anyone can either send me a picture of the cutting end or tell me the angle of the spear head for the straightest cut? This is an old tool which I used to use but have not seen for many years, I have forged the head this evening and will file the rest to shape tommorrow but it is a lot of effort (for 3 holes) and I want to get it right so that I have it for future use.

Being nosey I am curious what the article is as it sounds interesting

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

 It is for a customer in the antiques trade and it is a sword stick. Traditionally sword sticks were square or rectangular and were hidden inside a Malacca cane. Malacca is part of the palm family I believe and it has a pith in the middle which is a bit softer than the outside but both bits are fairly soft (but harder than Balsa wood) The danger when drilling a hole this length is coming out of the side as the wood flexes when you are drilling it. I hope to be able to shim it straight within a metal tube and then bore it in a straight line. Done at a low speed(less than 200 RPM) and doing about 3/8 inch at a time and clearing all the waste every time, with my fingers crossed and the wind in the right direction I hope to get a hole nearly a metre long tapering from 3/8 " to about 1/8 ". Malacca was used because it is so light in weight and that helps camoflauge the fact that a walking stick contains a sword. The customer has the fittings to put the catch and the handle on and a small brass ferrule at the bottom. If I can I will video it to show you the process.
Thanks for your suggestions, heated up some steel rod this morning and this afternoon I will make the end I hammered out yesterday into a spear point and the other end I will hammer and file into a mini shell type auger, I will then see what happens. If it all goes wrong I have wasted a Saturday, if it works I will have a tool for future use.

[Lazurus]

Whilst talking about heating the steel, would the wood be soft enough to burn as opposed to drill, using the long shank?

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Lazarus I have to admit that is something I have thought about in the past but never tried. I would say though that because the wood is not my supply I cannot take the chance of it splitting due to the heat of burning, I know that there will be heat generated when I drill it but I feel I am better able to control that. Also I would imagine it would take a bit more time than drilling it and I have to think of the commercial aspect of it too. My customers pay by the hour so I have to ensure that they are paying for constructive time rather than experimental time (although at times it can run in together).

[Lazurus]

Thinking out of the box again, could it be done like a split turning, the center routed, carved or otherwise hollowed and then rejoined?

[Bryan Milham]

Thinking out of the box again, could it be done like a split turning, the center routed, carved or otherwise hollowed and then rejoined?

This was my thought as well as it is the normal way to make wooden scabbards.

[seventhdevil]

malacca is just another name for rattan and i'm willing to bet that these were burnt out not drilled.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Thinking out of the box again, could it be done like a split turning, the center routed, carved or otherwise hollowed and then rejoined?

This was my thought as well as it is the normal way to make wooden scabbards.

That would be my choice  if it were my materials but the client does not want that he wants it drilled, I imagine the reason behind this is the cane shows a bit of age to it and I doubt they would want to spoil the patina. Also you never know with these antique dealers how much they tell their customers, I wouldn't mind betting that assuming I can drill it out nicely the cane they make from it automatically becomes 150 years old!!

[burywoodturners]

Just athought, I have a standard long hole boring tool, which I use for making the hole for the flex in a table lamp. I found these heated up enough to make me worry about blueing the tip. I had a set of four table lamps to make recently and I started dipping the end of the drill in ordinary paste wax, it left a cleanner hole and was a lot easier to use and the bit ran noticeable cooler.
It also left a shine inside the hole but I think I am the only one to see that!
Ron

[Steve Jones]

I have a few very, very old  taper bits but none the length you require but just for interest here's a pic of one.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Ron I have the Axminster long hole boring kit and yes I tend to apply wax to it every time I withdraw and apart from meking it cut easier I feel that it makes it run truer too.
Steve thanks for the picture, that looks like the old shell auger from a hand brace, the one I am making is somewhat similar but as the hole is very small it will only be used for little cuts at a time. I think as long as I take it steady it should be fine. Years ago for long hole boring we used to put the drill bit in the lathe and hold the piece to be drilled and just "sight it up" and push it on. I am hoping my system will be safer and less hit and miss.