Author Topic: Wet Willow turning or drying  (Read 2488 times)

Offline Ianthescribe

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Wet Willow turning or drying
« on: January 08, 2018, 07:24:59 PM »
I am about to start turning again after a layoff of 12 years.  I am about to cut down some Willow, does it turn in the wet or do I season it first?  Also I am converting my single skin garage to a turning w/shop.  Insulation is an issue.  Any ideas please??...

Offline Les Symonds

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2018, 08:24:44 PM »
....Willow, does it turn in the wet or do I season it first? ....
Willow is a tricky one. Bear in mind that it grows in very moist conditions and that it grows rapidly, so its green timber is low density and high moisture content; that's a recipe for tricky drying and sure enough, it is renowned for being difficult to season successfully, thus it is normally used for only small items, with cricket bats being just about the biggest thing made from them. I managed to thin-turn a 10" diameter end-grain bowl, several inches deep recently, using freshly felled willow. it dried within a month or so but developed a star shake radiating out of the pith, so was filled with copper dust and ca adhesive, but the biggest problem was that the wood is a bit fluffy, especially when wet, so a lot of sanding is needed once dry. I'm not sure that it was really worth the effort! Had I seasoned it first, it's a fair bet that the log would have cracked.
Les
Education is important, but wood turning is importanter.

Offline fuzzyturns

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2018, 10:46:40 PM »
I can't add much to what Les has already said about turning willow.
I can say a few things about your workshop, though, as I have taken over a medium size workshop in similar condition.
In the end it all comes down to money. There are essentially four things to look at:
  • The walls: A single skin is not great, and that's all I have. I didn't want to spend a huge amount, so left it at that and only painted it white. If you have the money, you could drywall it. There's a type of plasterboard available that already has a 1-2" foam backing, and that should improve things a lot. However, you will then need to skim the entire space and paint it. It's a lot of work, and if done by a plasterer, will probably set you back the bast part of £1000 (for a single garage)
  • The windows, if you have any. Mine were completely rotten and needed replacing, so I got some mismeasured windows from a local company, and had triple glazing fitted into them. Three decent size windows, and proper house door, triple-glazed, and fitted for about 1500. Well worth it for sound insulation and thermal insulation.
  • The ceiling: If this is your normal bog standard garage, you either have some sort of flat roof and you can see the rafters, or you have a gable space, also with rafters visible. Put insulation in (any DIY store has the stuff), at least 100mm thick, plasterboard to hold it in space, then skimmed and painted. You should be able to get all of this done for about £800.
  • The floor: I wouldn't bother doing anything other with the floor than levelling it (self-levelling compound from Screwfix is good) and then giving it several coats of floor paint. I went with epoxy paint, that's the kind of stuff used in car workshops and airport hangars. Very expensive, a mess to put in, but lasts forever. You can always put some rubber matting on top to insulate your feet a little.

My workshop is cold, but I prefer to work in relatively low temperatures. Anything above 5 degrees is doable, and above 10 degrees is comfortable for working. Just make sure you have proper work boots with thick rubber soles, and put an extra T-shirt on, and you'll be fine. My shop is about 30m2 (that's about 270 square foot), and I have a small 2kW electric heater in it. When it's really cold (i.e. like right now, we have about 0-2 degrees Celsius) I run the heater for an hour before I start working, and that's enough.

Offline Lazurus

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2018, 07:58:56 AM »
I have had little success with willow and other wetland trees, the only thing I use the green branches for is flower heads, as the drying opens them and gives a pleasing color.
Living and working on the Norfolk Broads

Offline BrianH

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2018, 11:46:06 PM »
last time I turned a sizable piece of willow I made two hollow forms while wet. No sanding.... its far too fluffy.... and no finish either. The piece went straight out as a garden ornament and lasted several years in spite of no weather protection.
Brian

Offline Tim Pettigrew

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2018, 09:21:58 AM »
I am converting my single skin garage to a turning w/shop.  Insulation is an issue.  Any ideas please??...

Hopefully THIS may help?
« Last Edit: January 12, 2018, 09:23:43 AM by Tim Pettigrew »

Offline The Bowler Hatted Turner

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Re: Wet Willow turning or drying
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2018, 11:07:06 PM »
Carrying on from Fuzzyturn's post and as the H&S chap I am obliged  to say the minimum recommended safe working temperature in a wood working workshop is 13 degrees. Anything less and apparently you do not have sufficient feeling in your fingers for safe working.
        Personally I prefer to work a bit colder because it then makes me work harder but that is through choice. Just saying.