Tool handle ferrule

[Nige7]

I have turned a handle in Ash for an old skew I am bringing back to life.  I am intending to use a piece of 22mm copper tube for the ferrule and am wondering whether the part of the handle the ferrule will go on should be turned parallel but a little oversize or with a slight taper so the ferrule is squeezing wood as it is tapped on.

Any advice please

Nigel

[Nige7]

I can anneal the ferrule if necessary.

Nige

[Bryan Milham]

When I use a bit of copper pipe I tend to make the tenon a snug fit with just a slight taper to lead the ferrule on. I've never thought about annealing the copper and making it a stretch fit.

The other thing that hopefully goes without saying is de-burr, the copper will form a burr which if used for sizing will give you the wrond diameter.

[admalin]

Hi
Don't forget to prick-punch the ferrule with a centre punch at say 120 degrees.

Tony Malin

[BrianH]

Hi Nige
I like to clean the copper ferrule with abrasive to instill a little heat (and expansion) into it before pushing it on gently with the tailstock. Another wheeze is to lightly cut the surface grain, right up close to the handle, so that any tiny shaving removed by the copper will fall away rather than become a fixed eyesore for evermore.
I also favour a straight-from-the-abrasive finish and allow my hands the final polish. This may not be as good looking, as the more usual shine but gives me a much better 'feel' in use.
Handles are also a good time to play around with burning, texturing and colours so that each handle is instantly recognisable among the shavings.
Now there's a few new thoughts to be going on with....
All the best
Brian

[thebowlerhattedturner]

Hello Nigel,
                I usually make the ferrule area parallel but make a very small chamfer on the end for a bit of lead in .When I use copper tube for ferrules I cut one end with a tube cutter and the other with a hacksaw. The tube cutter leaves a burr on the inside but the outside is quite tidy so I cut the end nearest the handle with the hacksaw to make a square fit. I don't sand the ferrule area but leave it with a chisel finish and a  (very) snug fit. A dot of superglue does not go amiss but you shouldn't really need it.I drill the hole for the tang in decreasing size (burning it on makes for a loose fit) and strike the end of the handle to drive the blade on. Don't stand the blade on the bench and hit the handle on(as I saw some one do) as you could damage the blade and split the handle. You could dot it with a nail or centre punch it needs be.
Regards
John BHT

[Nige7]

Thank you to everybody. All the useful information I need. I hadn't thought about prick punching the ferrule to secure it, thanks Tony.

Nigel

[hughie]

I turn with a slight taper, tap the ferrule of and pour CA into the small gap between the ferrule and the handle. Sometimes if the wood is very dry it will take a few goes at it to fill it. Never had one move or a problem and probably have 20 such handles on my tools

[Nige7]

I thought I had left the part for the ferrule with plenty of diameter. The ferrule certainly took of shavings when I tapped it on. Two days indoors in the warm and the ferrule just drops off!!!  I expected the wood to shrink but certainly underestimated by how much
What have I learned?  To allow critical diameters to dry and shrink before turning for final fit.

I should have remembered this requirement as we did the same thing with the chair legs and stretchers on the chair making course we attended last year. Doh

Nige

[John D Smith]

Hi Nige7, The main thing is we learn by our mistakes.Regards John

[Nige7]

I hope so John   Fortunately the ferrule can still be glued in position !

Nige