Newbie turning question

[Dancie]

I’m a newbie that’s still leaning and making loads of mistakes though less and less as time goes by.
 
I recently turned a small lump of rather dry spalted sycamore, I had loads of trouble with torn grain at both ends where the spalting was. I understand that this can be the norm with spalting, it was like polystyrene, very crumbly but smooth in the other areas.

I re-sharpened my gouges but no improvement, I doused the ends with sanding sealer which also didn’t make any improvement, I worked the gouge in both directions just in case the wood wanted me to, but it was still pants.

I was just about to give up and set fire to it when I decided to sand it through the grits starting at 120 and ending with 400 and that worked – I don’t understand why abrasive worked but a sharp gouge didn’t!

It has been suggested to me that the better result from using the abrasives was probably due to the wood fibres being compressed as I applied the paper, rather than being lifted when I used the re-sharpened gouge, which makes a lot of sense.

I know that some turners use thin super glue to help ‘stabilise’ soft timber but it has also been suggest that I use Ronseal wood hardener.

My question has anyone used this product and what sort of results have you had please? I understand from reading about Ronseal wood hardener that it takes 2 hours to dry which seems rather restrictive.

Many thanks,

Dancie.

[GBF]

I have used Ronseal wood hardener in the past and it works but I am not sure about the dust but I don't suppose it is any worse than spalted wood. Two hours to dry ? Are you in a hurry.
It sounds to me like you need to improve your tooling in which case you would probably benefit by having some tuition .

Regards George

[bodrighywood]

Cutting soft end grain successfully is best achieved using slicing cuts with a skew I find. Not everyone seems to agree mind. Sanding youare filling the splits etc with the dust, that can help to get a better finish. As George says howyou use the tools can make a big difference. What were you using on it?

Pete

[Lazurus]

I agree with Pete on the skew, if your turning between centers, the skew is a nemesis for some but can produce really good results so worth practicing with. I am by no means an expert with one but do persevere in using when I can. I have also had good results using carbide cutters when hollowing end grain, I use a captive system but there are different types including hand held, again a learning curve, but hey, if turning was easy everyone would be doing it.

Stuart

[Dancie]

Hello all,

Many thanks for your prompt replies.

I was making a small bowl, and using a very sharp bowl gouge.

Tuition . . . . . . . hhhmmm if I could afford more then I would, however to make sure it wasn't my inexperience I did present the gouge at very slightly different positions with no improvement.


I have yet to master the skew or perhaps it needs to master me.

All the best.

Dancie.

[Dancie]

The 2 hours to dry time with Ronseal do dar.

I meant if it was on the lathe it would be restrictive.

D

[Eric Harvey]

if you are using a bowl gauge,try approaching the work with the gauge on its side so it cuts like a skew chisel ( If its a long grind or a short grind ),you might have better success with that,I wouldn`t use a skew chisel on a bowl as that could be disasterous,cheers,

Eric.

[Dancie]

Hello Eric,

Many thanks for your suggestion.

My ‘tooling’ on a bowl is normally ok, and as I wrote the rest of the wood, the non spalted area was smooth and tidy.

I have turned spalted timber in the past with no problem, but this was a particularly difficult piece.

I was looking for suggestions so that I know what to do in the future and I fully understand what you mean when you say present the bowl gouge on its side, it becomes like a skew but not a skew.

Perhaps I should stick to non spalted in the future, I’ve been told that many turners have a love hate relationship with this type of timber.

I know I have much to learn and I always appreciate the help and advice from others.

All the best,

Dancie.

[George Watkins]

its unusual for sanding sealer to not help, was it really thin or thick as supplied? it needs to be quite thin to penetrate deeply and harden the problematic fibres.

I think we all have this trouble sometimes, I prefer to use lemon oil to soak the problem fibres then with the sharpest edge i can get i take a very light cut again.
Sometimes this improves it but doesn't totally solve it then i do just start at 120 and get rid of it.

[Dancie]

Hello George,

The sanding sealer was a 50 - 50 mix applied twice, perhaps I should've used it straight from the bottle.

Thanks for your suggestion.

All the best,

Dancie