Gasket paper or - what?

[Les Symonds]

Do you use a paper gasket on your headstock spindle, between spindle and chuck/faceplate?

...and if you do.....

What type of paper do you use?

Les

[edbanger]

Hi Les

I use nothing, you might not remember but when I first joined this forum I got the chuck well and truly stuck on the spindle, it took me ages to get it off damaging the lathe with the way I was told by Axminster Tools to remove it.

I've not a problem since and the chuck is on and off the lathe most days.

I have a C spanner and I wind the chuck on to the spindle and then make sure it's on firm with a extra push down on the C spanner nothing to hard but just enough to make sure there's no movement. To remove I take the C spanner give a tape with the hand and the chuck runs free no problem.

Ed

[woodndesign]

Yep, Les, Albeit most will say it is best not too, I'd consider it cushions the chuck on the register and has stopped what is more likely to be thread lock than sticking on the register, not had it happen since the very first time it stuck. Then at the time it may have taken any thread bur off.

I used for what I could find at the time, a thicker brown gasket paper, almost card, more post card than cereal box for weight.  I'd not consider by using as washer, it having created any appreciable run out problems.

Cheers  Dewi

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

You have to consider that the chuck and spindle have been machined to tight tolerances. So you must ensure that the register plate is close fitting when the chuck is screwed on or you may get a rattle.

[woodndesign]

You have to consider that the chuck and spindle have been machined to tight tolerances. So you must ensure that the register plate is close fitting when the chuck is screwed on or you may get a rattle.

The spindle thread is likely to be accurately machined, there is no accounting for that same accuracy in close tolerances with any accessories that suits that thread, even in house by the same manufactures.

Tolerances when it comes to morse tapers vary too, I've a drive that is difficult to remove. 
 

[Paul Hannaby]

If the morse taper is difficult to remove, that's probably an indication of it being a better fit that the others.

The spindle thread isn't the bit that needs to be accurate. It's the register behind it that matters. Even with the same thread, these can vary between manufacturers. For example there are five different versions of the M33x3.5 thread so it can be a bit of a minefield.

[Bryan Milham]

My first lathe (3/4 x 16 thread) had a Fibre Washer for the chuck (an old Craft Supplies RS2000) to register against.

Neither of my subsequent lathes have had one, nore have I ever had a problem.

I think it's an old timers trick, when there were no specialised chucks so metal lathe chucks were used. They enabled the chuck to be tightened against the headstock register face and little bit of slap to be taken up.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

"I think it's an old timers trick," there you go again Bryan trying to make me look older than I am
I use a thin piece of gasket paper, not sure if you can still get it these days but the alternative should be something like shim material, you are after something thin but made to an even thickness that can register on the register all the way around evenly. Obviously you would be better off getting your accessories to fit correctly in the first place which is the safest option and as the H&S man this is the one I recommend.

I do remember as an apprentice the cutters on the old Whitehill blocks on spindle moulders used to be "shimmed" with various thicknesses of sand paper or cigarette packets (everyone used to smoke in those days to calm the nerves working in a machine shop) I witnessed many cutters flying out but only ever found one, it had embedded itself in the head of the door frame just as I walked into the shop. I'm still shell shocked now!!

[Sevilla]

I use a thin film of thin oil on the spindle shoulder. It works for me.

[Graham]

I am new to all of the and I don't have a clue what you are all going on about 

[Les Symonds]

I am new to all of the and I don't have a clue what you are all going on about 

....gotta be honest, Graham, I'm struggling to keep up.

I started the thread because I've had difficulty getting a face-plate off the spindle a couple of times, lately. My big reversing jig for reversing platters tends to lock onto the spindle thread, and it can then be a bit of a monster to get back off again. I was aware of a few people always putting a paper washer onto the spindle before threading a chuck onto it, so was wondering if it helped to stop chucks and faceplates locking onto the thread, but this doesn't seem to be the case.
Les

[Eric Harvey]

the trick is not to put the chuck/faceplate on to tight,as with an accurate register if you turn the lathes on to tighten them,they will definately lock,the best way I have found is to tighten slowly by hand,them undo a quarter turn and then spin up the faceplate/chuck then its tight enough not to undo without difficultybut not loose enough to fall off,unless you have reverse facility on your lathe,the you need to drill and tap a hole in the side of the backplate of the chuck or the faceplate where the register is  two or three holes so you can keep the balance even,and when tightening the holdfast setscrews do them all lightly finger tight then a quarter turn on each till their fully tight,so the chuck/faceplate doesn`t go out of balance.I`ve only ever got a chuck stuck once,but a spindle lock and a 3ft bar got it loose,cheers,

Eric.

[Bryan Milham]

If you do want/need a gasket of some sort, don't think gasket material (it is expensive), but the old trick of a bit of cornflake box is good enough in most cases.

I've used it to repair Carbs on a Jag, so for a lathe spindle register it will be more than sufficient.

[Les Symonds]

the trick is not to put the chuck/faceplate on to tight.......

Fair point, Eric, but I get a problem with my platter reversing jig, which is basically a 30" diameter plywood disc. It acts a bit like a flywheel, building its own momentumn, such that when the motor is stopped, it wants to carry on, and can un-thread itself as it tries to run faster than the lathe. Perhaps i need to adopt your idea of setting a couple of grub screws into it to make a positive connection with the shaft.
Las

[burywoodturners]

I have only once had a chuck stick. I had left it on and been exiled from the shed for a bit! Both threaded accessories, chucks, face plats etcetera, and Morse tapers will stick if left on too long, so don't leave them in when not in use. The real question is why when a chuck will come undone easily when it is fitted becomes almost welded on after a few weeks of none use?
Ron