Newbie best way to get rid Of end grain tear Out after Turning A bowl

[EnErY]

Hi
Not trying to be a idiot here but on turning bowls im getting a lot of end grain tear out its making life hard for me on the perfect finish on a bowl or any other form I turn im getting out most of it but when I actually finish my item I can still see it what is the secret I ask my tools are like razors I go thro the grits from 80-1200i power sand with flap wheels and use a variety of polish and oil finish but I can still see the end grain tear out very slightly is this normal?
kind regards
Bill

[Bryan Milham]

Bill,

Could you put up a photo of a turned bowl showing your 'off the tool work' as well as an example of the markings you are seeing after you've sanded and applied your finish.

Cheer's

Bryan

[ravenge]

Before you take your last finish cut make sure you tool is nice and sharp, you could also try shear scraping, use a round ended scraper tilted to around a 45 degree angle and take light cuts on the inside of bowls on the outside do the same but use either a straight edge scraper or a round one, personally I would just make sure my tools are freshly sharpened and take very light cuts, sorby sell a lovely little shear scraper with a teardrop cutter (sorry don't know number off hand) I use it many many times, it's a great little tool and can get into some very tight spots (I have two, when one goes dull I grab the other one)
If I could offer you only one hint it would be take light cuts with sharp tools when finishing (2 or 3 light cuts are much better than 1 heavy cut when finishing!!!
Take your time and you will soon get the hang of it.

Now, have fun and get that wood spinning!!!

[Les Symonds]

Hi EnErY....if I might be so bold as to ad to this thread! I've just started turning after a period of over 20 years away from the lathe and was getting exactly the same problem as you. I use the system that ravenge just mentioned, i.e. sheer scraping. What I find essential in using this technique is this.....

Assuming you're turning inboard (over the bed-bars of the lathe) set your toolrest as far over to the left as you can and swing the handle of the scraper over to the left such that you are cutting with the left hand edge of the scraper's curved end. There's a very good reason for this! In sheer-scraping, you have to tip the scraper onto it's left edge, so that it meets the timber at an angle, rather than squarely, therefore, if you're using the tip of the scraper it could well slam down onto the rest if it digs in at all. Think about it! when the scraper is tilted onto its left edge, only the left-hand side of the scraper is supported on the toolrest.

Hold your scraper flat on the toolrest without the lathe running, such that it is square to the timber, then tilt it by about 20degrees anti-clockwise and you'll notice that the tip is no longer supported, swing the end of the handle out until the left-hand edge of the curve is scraping and now the scraper is supported behind its cut......it's far less likely to dig in!
Les

[woody]

Billy boy have you forgotten all I showed you LOL

[EnErY]

Thanks people ill Do a finish on The bowl Then Post it just To Show you what I mean by it .The Bowl Is 10x4in deep out of Elm
Kind regards
Bill

[thebowlerhattedturner]

Hello Bill,
            if you have tried all the methods described before this post,and they did not work,try combining them with a soaking of sanding sealer or superglue. this will have the effect of hardening the timber and may make for a cleaner cut.
regards
john BHT

[Woodcrafts]

Hi Bill,

Not having seen the problem, I just wonder if the problem is not actually 'tear out' but 'bruising'. This is caused by the back of the bevel damaging the wood as you make the cut, and becomes more apparent when you apply a finish. It does show more as a ring of damage, whereas tear out is quite localised but this might be your real problem.

Many turners recommend that, after sharpening, you lightly grind the back of the bevel to remove the 'sharp' edge. After all this is what you are pivoting on when cutting inside bowls. Others suggest significantly reducing the length of the bevel, to allow tighter radius of the cut. Sorry I can't send pictures of what I mean - I am in the office doing paperwork, rather than at the workshop enjoying myself. I may try and get some pics up later on.

I may have completely the wrong diagnosis but, on the other hand, this might be the answer.

[EnErY]

hi guys this is the offending tear out problem im getting  thanks for all your concerned help and comments

[Les Symonds]

Hi EnErY...I'm inclined to agree with George...I've made a dozen or so bowls in  the past and have recently returned to turning, but I keep away from those sheer-sided shapes because you can't sweep the gouge around them, so there's a lot of stop-start with different tools.
Having said all that, i admire your courage and well done for tackling such a tricky piece of timber, especially that dead knot on the rim!
Les

[thebowlerhattedturner]

hello Bill,
            although I support George's reply fully, I think your problem is you are rubbing the bevel during the cut,you may have your tool ground at the wrong angle to achieve this on this design of bowl. Bevel rubbing is very important.
regards
John BHT

[woody]

As you know Bill I have made 100s of these bowls they are just a another discipline to learn well done you for trying it is very nice Bill just one small thing I can see tool marks on the bottom of the bowl it just needs a little bit more work sheer scraping is one way to get rid of the tool marks but I know its to late now as you have sold it keep em coming mate well done mind that hand

[EnErY]

Sold it with tool marks in it .
It is no wonder woodturning is looked down on in this country

George

Thank You For your comment and bestowing confidence in my work also making me think it was worthwhile to pay £16 pounds at Yandles show to join the AWGB to gain some worthwhile encouragement and learn to further my hobby without being shot to bits at the first hurdle .Not everybody or everything is perfect in this life. after such a long time without turning due to surgery on my left hand of which im struggling with now personally I thought it was a effort for critism not for butchery .
Regards
Bill

[EnErY]

This can go on forever but I will point out that if you can honestly tell me you have either thrown your first turnings on your wood burner or never accepted any kind of donation gift money for anything that is never 100% PERFECTION then I don't think your on the same planet as myself .
The amount I was given for this bowl covered the cost of the blank I used  to me that is a cost effective method of keeping my hobby going im no professional turner and I don't think I ever will be but I do try my best I think on my part the matter is closed .
im  retired and enjoying what im doing you must be a professional turner or you wouldn't be bothered in the fact I sold the said item its not real completion on your part im not stealing your business.
Lets put this to bed act like adults and beg to differ on opinions please 
Regards
Bill

[EnErY]

You are really getting me at The Point Of Blowing a gasket and leaving this forum I have requested in my last post to leave it at a point of stale mate now you persist on carrying it on .
I'm in no position to pay out for tuition unfortunately because of the fact I served in countries abroad in conflicts to keep rich people in social comforts that can afford such luxuries ,where veterans  don't your a lucky man ,im not im asking you again lets leave it at a difference of opinion if I can fund my hobby in any way I will. it does not give you the right to put me down for it
Regards
Bill