Then it Stopped

[woodndesign]

Hi Bryan, that's the very thing I had planned, the stud maybe against the back of the machine, then is that not always the case ..  .. wonder for the location and cracked case had been down to something could have dropped on it at some point, damp since got in an caused the failure ...  And yes cut then change out color/# for color/# on replacement.

Paul, well done there, yep, that's the closest Maplins and likely to have one, just the case of fixing and cable tabs/end .. or as pictured looks like spade lugs, maybe not to cut current lead short.

Maplins has most things, wonder if they'd have a drive belt..  all happens at once.

Cheers David

[Derwent Woodturning club]

Hi David,
The failure of electrolytic capacitors in this manner is not that unusual. Unless you really whacked it with something, you can put this down to bad luck and old age - the capacitor that is!!! .

These capacitors consist of paper wound in a roll, with chemical in between to store charge. Eventually the paper breaks down and the resulting point of failure rapidly progresses through the component, leaving a horrible, smelly and sticky mess. It was a fairly common fault when I was in the computer industry.

Hope you get it sorted soon.

[ru55ell1]

David

I had the same bandsaw and same problem, I got a new capacitor from CPC in Preston, they do mail order and if you call them they are pretty good.

http://cpc.farnell.com/

[julcle]

Hi Russell, I had forgotten about CPC. Farnel were in Canal Road when I had an account with them

[woodndesign]

David

I had the same bandsaw and same problem, I got a new capacitor from CPC in Preston, they do mail order and if you call them they are pretty good.

http://cpc.farnell.com/

Thank you Russell, that looks a very handy link, endless read as to what they carry and most of it is a case of can do with some of it.

Having a look into all possibilities and the wonders of google, I've got a firm which supplies parts from most all major tool manfactures, so as I needed a drive belt as well have gone with that and it will be a straight forward swop an not a match up or adapt to fit.  Also able to get a part for B&D sander ..    ...

Thank you everyone for help and advice, the forum at it's best.

David

[woodndesign]

Update .. I've had the parts in for a few days now.. well week .. too find the time, having checked the capacitor the cables are not color coded or labeled, I take it there's no wrong way to connect them into the relevant terminals ..  Next the manual as is the norm. gives assembly of parts as shipped and with no regard to repair or to the change/replacement of the drive belt, I'd consider to remove the wheel and bearing, given the parts plan, than dismantle the shaft from the frame setup which looks to have a nut on the shaft behind the bearing and to later face wheel runout ... then pulling an aluminum wheel could run into problems too ..  Has anyone been there with this job ...  help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers   David

[Bryan Milham]

David,

I 'acquired' my bandsaw from someone who bought a new one. But told me it was not working (I'll have a go at fixing anything) anyway, the wheels were very stiff & grating so I deduced new bearings and anticipated the same problem removing the wheels.

Wrong, they are a slide fit not a press fit and come off relatively easily so I would guess yours will be the same.

But don't touch the locked lower shaft, it's balanced/centred in factory.

[woodndesign]

Bryan you're a gentleman ... I'd considered when time permit, the wheel assembly would slip off easy with a little spray of something, but for a bit of rust..

Cheers   David

[Bryan Milham]

David - Don't spray.

Penetrating fluid will ruin the bearings, the solvent will strip the grease out of them.

at best tap gently from behind with the side of a hammer or some-such.

[woodndesign]

David - Don't spray.

Penetrating fluid will ruin the bearings, the solvent will strip the grease out of them.

at best tap gently from behind with the side of a hammer or some-such.

Cheers Bryan sound advice for anyone, not the easiest thing to get behind for the enclosed housing or pull/lever on what's not the best of cast aluminum, then it's likely just to fall off.

Anyone on advice with the capacitor connections as are not coloured or labeled.

Cheers  David

[Bryan Milham]

David,

It's strapped across 240V ac, very few 'ac' capacitors have a polarity (yes folks, I know some do). So if the leads are not identifed they can go on either way around.

The purpose of the capacitor is to create a phase difference between the voltage and current to give the motor a kick to start it turning, nothing more complex than that.

[woodndesign]

Cheers for that Bryan, It's best to ask, not wanting a back EMF ... I'd found with automotives, electrics could be mind boggling .. Parallel or Series .. Then schmitt triggers, darlington pair transistors and capacitors/resistors .. an the joker who passes the charged capacitor ..

David

[woodndesign]

Well it's been a couple weeks passed since I got to replace the capacitor and the belt, good news was for the concern about pulling the wheel off the shaft, no problem there, with the blade removed the wheel was a rattle fit .. loose and slide off, took longer to find the circlip pliers ...

Not a lot of life left in the belt .. 

...  ...

Cheers    David

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Yes I think it was safe to say you got your monies worth out of that belt
Following this post with all the help and advice given perhaps between us we ought to start publishing service manuals!
Regards
John BHT