AWGB Woodturning Forum

Presumably the problem with ridges appearing is due to the different coefficients of expansion for different types of wood.

Controlling moisture content (at the time of assembly) and grain orientation are also factors that can cause issues.

Tried to listen to the soundfile, not much sound.  Think about variables:  volume of 'soundbox' - how big the thing is, speed of spinning, how well it resonates - thickness of walls, and what its made of.  Different woods resonate differently - have a search around the web but I suspect ash is pretty dead.  Could you re-mount it on the lathe and just spin it at a faster speed and hear any difference?  More holes, bigger holes, smaller holes, keep trying.  Here's one Ive just found: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OfsalisQGlc.  The old fashioned 'humming tops' were tinplate toys, thin walls and lots of air inside.

Just seen a few more on the AAW forum (associaltion of american woodturners, you can often find odd things there.) https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/spinning-top-whistling-singing-noise-making.18978/

Maybe your holes are a bit big?

If you live in or near Oxford, amuse yourself with a visit to the (free) Pitt Rivers museum.  I went yesterday and saw many wonderful things, including "whistling arrows" designed to terrify the enemy or announce the arrival of the emporer.

right way up for clarity!

Fully working with accessories £2900.00
contact me for full details please if you are serious about buying
Thanks.

I, and others, have made hundreds of segmented pieces using pva adhesives without problems. In USA and here many use Titebond adhesives. I use Wudcare 5 minute pva adhesive made in UK. All work fine for me. The bond strength of these adhesives is very high so much so that wood will split before the glue bond. Good firm clamping and good adhesive coverage in the joint is needed.

Prior to using Urea Formaldehyde glue I only tried Titebond 3, and it was completely unsuitable, for the reasons already mentioned. Technically I’m not sure if it’s actually regarded as a PVA as there are many similar products on the market with differing chemical compositions.
To suggest that all PVA adhesives are suitable for joints that have to remain without any movement is disingenuous, unless you’re really suggesting that you’ve tried all the PVA adhesives on the market.

Having said that the Wudcare 5 you suggest specifically says it has been “creep failure tested” so perhaps that may be worth a try. Not for me, as I’m very happy with  Aerolite, but maybe for others.

Another small issue for me, has in the past been shelf life. PVA adhesives don’t seem to last very long, especially if they get very cold. Axminster tools explained why they stopped selling some Titebond adhesives during certain times of the year for this very reason. I’ve had powdered Aerolite on my shelf for some years and it’s still viable, at least the last time I used it.