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Welly you said you can have another couple of goes before thinking about a grinder, may I suggest that you wait until you do have the grinder, one reason is that turning with blunt tools is dangerous and less enjoyable than turning with sharp tools but also with a sharp chisel you may find that the problems you had with stance evaporate. Although sharp when new chisels need sharpening when they first come out of the box, you may well have turned that bowl,nice shape by the way, with blunt tools, imagine the outcome with sharp ones.
   I am glad you manged to get set up onboard as clearing up shavings from a gravel path is never very successful and leaving a mess of shavings could end up giving woodturners a poor reputation. Don't throw that bowl away, in a few weeks you will have the skills to turn an insert to save it. Best of luck.
General Discussion / Re: Any lefties? (left handed!)
« Last post by bodrighywood on Today at 07:50:21 AM »
Doesn't really matter whether you are right or left handed as you will need to learn to turn both ways in time.

General Discussion / Re: Any lefties? (left handed!)
« Last post by Les Symonds on Today at 06:07:47 AM »
I think that whether you're left handed or right handed, it makes little or no difference. Both hands are used to hold and to control the tools; when bowl turning, the right hand is generally on the very end of the handle, doing little more than countering the leverage forces and adjusting the tool's angle of presentation. The left hand is doing a lot of the fine control, keeping the tool from extending too far over the tool rest, as well as adding rotational movement. As Bryan says, given that this is a new skill that you are acquiring, it makes sense to acquire it in the way in which the lathe was constructed to be used. Also, as Steve says, there are occasions when all turners swap hands with the tool and work left/right handed; you'll just be at a slight advantage at such times.

I've had a few south-paws in for training and none of them has ever resorted to swapping the lathe configuration around. Rather, they learn their new skill as it is taught and don't seem to have any difficulty.

General Discussion / Re: Any lefties? (left handed!)
« Last post by dr4g0nfly on July 22, 2018, 11:07:32 PM »
Sorry, are you talking about reversing the positions of the headstock and tailstock or standing on the wrongs side of the lathe and reversing the lathe direction.

Firstly, Being left handed is only an issue when bowl turning, spindle turning can be either handed or as me, ambidextrous. My teacher made me turn left handed (I did not know) until I could do it, then let me turn right handed. Now I'm happy turning with either hand.

Truthfully, if you are just learning, keep things as they are and turn right handed, yes it sounds wrong, but you are learning a new skill and your body has no reference, so will adapt quite readily to using your hands that way.
General Discussion / Re: Any lefties? (left handed!)
« Last post by seventhdevil on July 22, 2018, 11:01:04 PM »
as long as the chuck or the faceplate is secured in a way so it can't come off the spindle then i don't see why not.

it's quite easy to adjust yourself to account for the way lathes are set out thought (designed for right handers) as i do the occasional bit of turning left handed even though i'm right handed but this is only done when the grain dictates it.
General Discussion / Any lefties? (left handed!)
« Last post by welly on July 22, 2018, 10:53:01 PM »
I'm left handed and am wondering if there's any value in doing my turning reversed? As in the head stock on the right and tail stock on the left? I found myself in a few awkward positions today that I wondered might have been easier to work if the whole thing was the other way round. Does anyone turn with that configuration?
General Discussion / Re: Hello and questions from a new turner
« Last post by welly on July 22, 2018, 10:43:24 PM »
Thanks very much for the encouragement! I shall be having another go one evening this week.

When I bought my tools it came with a small free offering of some bowl blanks and so currently working my way through those. I think you are absolutely right in using found wood and luckily for me a friend of mine is a tree surgeon so I shall be pestering him for a few off cuts!

Will post up my next effort that I'll be working on later this week. Another bowl most likely but hopefully one that'll keep its contents not let them fall through.
General Discussion / Re: Sanding speed
« Last post by dr4g0nfly on July 22, 2018, 10:15:58 PM »
Okay, admission time. I love the Hope sander, I hate his sanding arbours, they are useless as noted by all above.

I make my own...

2" Sanding Arbour -

3" Sanding Arbour -

50mm Hook & Loop -

8mm or 10mm Neoprene Foam -

Use Evostick or a contact adhesive on the on foam side without the sticky and on the Hook & Loop.

I've gone through several interface pads but only ever had one arbour fail and that was the threaded insert, I guess I did get one 'too hot'

I have a set of 2" and 3" for all grit sizes, saves keep swooping abrasive discs over, just a quick change of arbour.

General Discussion / Re: Wellingtonia "burr"...removing the resin!
« Last post by Les Symonds on July 22, 2018, 08:37:11 PM »
I love the way that a post on this forum can result in all sorts of information being exchanged....good stuff going on here!
General Discussion / Re: Sanding speed
« Last post by bodrighywood on July 22, 2018, 08:25:26 PM »
I have had the same problem with the last lot I bought. Within a month every one has seperated. Not convince it is speed related as I am sanding at about 800rpm. usually.

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