AWGB Woodturning Forum
General Category => Tool tips & reviews => Topic started by: Blake on December 01, 2020, 09:35:23 AM
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Hi All, looking for some advice regarding Head stock/Tail stock alignment, I have an Axminster Craft 305WL and have noticed the head stock/tail stock appear to be out of kilter - when I bring them together there's a marginal misalignment but as soon as I pull the tail stock back this amplifies - there's a little bit of play side to side of the Tail stock but not enough to counter this, If I use the tail stock to steady the work it forces the spindle (or bowl) out of kilter. - I'm scratching my head at the moment as to what to adjust & were to fix this - any advice?
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I would also highlight that when I turn a bowl - typically attached to a face plate to complete the outside of the bowl, when I then flip round and fix to a chuck via a tenon to do the inside of the bowl, I find the outside of the bowl is out of true -would this indicate the Head-stock is the component misaligned rather than the tail-stock?
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Hello Blake,
Spindle turning between centres would not create too much of a problem if centres are misaligned. Bowl turning from a faceplate to a chuck should not be a problem as the tailstock is not essential. The chances are there is some inaccuracy in your chuck or your tenon cutting. It is good practice to shape the outside of a bowl, cut the tenon and then true up the shape after mounting it in the chuck, before starting to turn out the inside. If you do want the extra support of the tailstock then it needs to be aligned.
The tailstock is the item which is moved quite regularly during turning. I have seen turners slip a piece of card under the tailstock to bring back the alignment but that is only ever a one off quick fix. Better to match the headstock to the tailstock. With a pointed centre of some sort in head and tail stock, adjust the headstock so that they meet. I think that your lathe has machine screws which fix the headstock to the bed which might provide the wiggle room needed if they are loosened.
Once aligned there should not be a problem. Good practice if possible is to bring up the tailstock centre with the piece of wood fixed to the faceplate or chuck with the lathe spinning.
ATB John
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Many thanks John especially for the tip regarding truing the bowl after mounting on the chuck - I'd heard/seen/read somewhere regarding the importance of ensuring the tenon was square to the chuck so had been paying attention to that aspect but makes sense now you've highlighted to true up.
I'll take a look at realigning the head stock, it doesn't cause me a major issue but does impact on things like boring a hole.
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Axminster sell this for alignment of HS and TS.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-lathe-alignment-centre-2mt-102427
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when checking for alignment with 2 pointy centres it is important....but rarely mentioned..... that this is only ever a snapshot. it doesn't tell you if the head and tailstock spindles or bedbars are actually parallel to each other. if I move my stocks I like to pull them towards me while tightening so I am only relying on one bar being straight. When boring holes I also adjust the tailstock position every half inch or so. This means I am using the same half inch of quill movement and reducing any run out that might exist.
Brian
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We had asimilar problem with our club lathe, the fixed headstock was a little out of line, release the fixing screws where the headstock meets the bed and give it the kiss test (where the tail stock centre meets the tail stock), and there is usually a little play. Line'em up and retighten.
Ron
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I have a problem with jacobs chucks that is similar. I can align the headstock/tailstock fine but when drilling it is always a little out. I have tried more that one drill chuck in the tailstock but it still happens. Any ideas?
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I have a problem with jacobs chucks that is similar. I can align the headstock/tailstock fine but when drilling it is always a little out. I have tried more that one drill chuck in the tailstock but it still happens. Any ideas?
What drill bits are you using? You can get wobble even on a well set up metal turning lathe if you try to start a hole with an ordinary twist drill. If I need the accuracy on any of my lathes I always start the hole with a spotting drill. They aren’t expensive.
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Try cleaning the morse tapers, specialised brushes are available or perhaps a modified tooth brush might get in. Any oily shavings or finishing products finding their way through a chuck might then be squashed against the bore to set solid next time the taper is used.
Brian
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Try cleaning the morse tapers, specialised brushes are available or perhaps a modified tooth brush might get in. Any oily shavings or finishing products finding their way through a chuck might then be squashed against the bore to set solid next time the taper is used.
Brian
I seem to remember there being tools to ream out the MT when I started turning, never owned one or found them needed, but the old timers used to have and use them, possibly because the shafts were made from metals more prone to rust in their day?
My usual answer is raid the kitchen, see what can be pinched, im my case a bottle brush with a long handle which passes right through the shaft, bit of meths and pushing twisting and pulling once a year or so when I feel like really cleaning up the lathe! It may or may not clean out the taper but it makes me feel like I have been thorough.
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You can buy commercial cleaners - at a price!
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/spindle-nose-and-workholding/taper-socket-cleaners/morse-taper-socket-cleaners/f/557
Can’t say I’ve ever needed one on any of my machines.
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If you want an MT2 taper cleaner and know someone with a 3D printer I have a file that I can let you have. I hadn't realised how dirty mine was until I used it on my lathe. I hadn't had an alignment issue though but the centres now go in and out easier.
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Yes please to the file.
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Here you go you will need to unzip it. It has an M8 thread in the end so you will need to turn a handle and glue a piece of M8 thread in the end.
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Morse taper reamers are available but would be serious overkill for cleaning with a very real danger of damage. You are trying to remove muck not steel!
Brian
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Many thanks.
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This looks quite a good way of making your own cleaner.
https://youtu.be/bfUXDsh9NqU