AWGB Woodturning Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Derek on November 03, 2018, 11:44:44 PM
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How many of you sign your work and how. Do any use branding irons and if so where do you get them from
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Derek, branding irons are available from the ToolPost in Didcot.
Dave
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I inscribe every single piece of work that I sell, unless it's a wholly-visible piece (like a key ring, fruit or light pull). Key to my business is the use of local materials and most of my timber is sourced within a few miles of my workshop, then sold in my own shop, so it's important to let the customer know that.
I pyrograph the following details on the underside...
- My business name (Pren)
- Where the item was made (Bala)
- The species of timber, in English and Welsh
- ...the names of any supplementary materials, such as stones or copper
- I occasionally note where the timber was sourced, even down to which farm/field
- Anything with an artistic content, and priced over £100 also gets my signature
......I know that this might sound a bit excessive to some, but it works for me. My market comprises tourists who love to take something away which reflects the area they visited, and it also comprises local people who are pleased to have local info on items that they purchase, especially if they are buying those items as gifts for someone else.
I did consider buying a branding iron, but it couldn't include the range of details that I want.
Les
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Derek I have a branding iron with my logo on it but just be careful because it only really works on a flat surface, if you wanted to make a mark on a concave surface you really would be better off with a pyrograph or perhaps a very small branding iron. Mine is 18mm across which is a mistake on my part as it should have been smaller.
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Thank you gentlemen for your swift replies.
Blimey Les how big is you bottom, maybe I should rephrase that how much room does all that take up ;D ;D ;D
BHT that is a very valid point about the bottom of work quite often having a concave. I have a phyrogrphy machine so maybe should use that.
Do you use a ball tip or just make a tip from the standard pyrography wire as I have seen/read somewhere that for signing work a ball is better for the flow of the letters ignoring the problems with grain that can throw you lines off.
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Derek it depends on how good you are with the pyrograph, the ball tip is certainly easier to use but I always think the razortip gives a better finish.
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I sign all my work and put month and year of make on it. Sometimes I put wood species as well, but as I do largely segmented work, there can be too many woods to specify. I use and Antecedent Foremaster pyrography machine with a fine ball tip. Grain lines can be a problem sometimes, but using only slight pressure can ease the problem.
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I must confess that I do not use the pyrography machine as much as I should and do know about a light touch but the question above about the ball tip was to see if it did help when doing signing with. I tend to make my own tips this is something that I have tried with it
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I .....put month and year of make on it.....
That's something that I strongly resist doing. All too often we see bowls etc, on other wood turners displays, proudly boasting the fact that they were made a few years ago, yet still have not been sold. OK, that happens to all of us, but why on earth would you choose to draw that to the attention of a potential buyer who might just be put off by seeing that for some reason, it remains on the shelf after a few years!
Les
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I agree with Les about putting the date on things but I have experienced the inconvenience of doing just that. In 2007 I made a load of Christmas decorations, probably a couple of hundred of them, I had booked for some Christmas markets to have a stall at and then my world fell apart, I was diagnosed with cancer. Taken into hospital in bit of a rush and all sorts of things were done to me so that in the end I did not attend any of the markets I had been booked into. So I then had 200 decorations with 2007 written on them, I had to wait until 2009 when I could change the number and get rid of them, ever since that time I have never put a date on anything.
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I pass the buck and get Mo to pyro the base with a simple 'Bodrighy Wood' She also puts the names of the butterflies, floweres etc of the pieces she decorates there.I totally agee with not putting a date omn. Made the same mistake as John a couple of years ago though fortunately not as many so was able to spread them around relatives.
Pete
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i don't brand my work if it's just a bowl or a vase but i do put this into one of my skittles if you buy a set.
hopefully the visiting team will see a great looking set of pins and be able to look me up on the net.
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i don't brand my work if it's just a bowl or a vase but i do put this into one of my skittles if you buy a set.
That looks great. I assume you use a lettering stencil? Is it a regular straight one?
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That's something that I strongly resist doing. All too often we see bowls etc, on other wood turners displays, proudly boasting the fact that they were made a few years ago, yet still have not been sold. OK, that happens to all of us, but why on earth would you choose to draw that to the attention of a potential buyer who might just be put off by seeing that for some reason, it remains on the shelf after a few years!
Les
A very valid point when I started this thread I was just thinking of my name and wood type(or space for this if branding iron was the route) and possibly the name of the piece if it has one.
After the posts here I think I will have a go using my pyrography machine. Some where it was said that the person in question makes two line on the bottom when cleaning it up so as to give a guide to the writing.
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Nick Zammeti recommends this guy for inserts and branding irons.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/vonHanke?ref=l2-shop-info-avatar
Fred Taylor
orchard-woodturners.org.uk
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Nick Zammeti recommends this guy for inserts and branding irons.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/vonHanke?ref=l2-shop-info-avatar
Fred Taylor
orchard-woodturners.org.uk
Blimey, may be good quality but think I'll stick to pyro, a lot cheaoer LOL.
Pete
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In addtion to BHT point about flat bottoms, MC together with Braning Iron Temperature affect quality of brand,I have had one for years the only way to obtain consistant results is with a recess base and an insert. every time the temp is checked on test piece the iron cools !! Not the best idea or tool I have had.
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i don't brand my work if it's just a bowl or a vase but i do put this into one of my skittles if you buy a set.
That looks great. I assume you use a lettering stencil? Is it a regular straight one?
i had these made by a guy who does laser cut things on ebay. they are 40mm wide and 4m thick and sealed in with a layer of superglue. they cost 50P each and i think i bought about 100?
i need to get some more soon.
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I can recommend Mick Shaw in Sheffield for brands and stamps for marking wood. He made my joiners stamp for me (for marking tools, etc), and makes excellent fire and electric brands for wood marking as well. His website is www.mshaw.co.uk
I'm not sure how competitive he is on price, but I prefer a quality product made locally by a craftsman, and he certainly ticks all these boxes!
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i don't brand my work if it's just a bowl or a vase but i do put this into one of my skittles if you buy a set.
That looks great. I assume you use a lettering stencil? Is it a regular straight one?
i had these made by a guy who does laser cut things on ebay. they are 40mm wide and 4m thick and sealed in with a layer of superglue. they cost 50P each and i think i bought about 100?
I have the same as Steve cheap as chips and very professional looking The image was a prototype so ignore the typo.
i need to get some more soon.