AWGB Woodturning Forum
General Category => Tool tips & reviews => Topic started by: Rlewisrlou666 on October 22, 2014, 01:57:34 PM
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So in this post I'll be sharing my journey through a restoration of a Myford ML8.
It's an early model from the first run of ML8's that Myford produced.
In a beautiful Cream colour, well not so beautiful any more because the only paint left on it has degraded and has started chipping/peeling/falling off.
It has a lot of rust that from what I can tell at the moment seems to only be surface rust and hasn't penetrated right through.
The bolts that I have had a go at seem to be free apart from cracking them and the rust on the threads make them a bit tight.
This is my 2nd ever lathe and my first ever restoration Lathe project so please bare with me I'll probably get things wrong, I'll probably mess up a few thing but I'll get there in the end.
I paid £80 for it but it did come with some Rob Sorby, Marples and unknown Chisels so it was a steal.
Jobs to be done are as follows.
1) Complete tear down / Strip of all parts.
2) Clean up all parts (Soda Blast everything that can be blasted treat the ones that can't)
3) Prime any parts that will need paint to save from more rust, Protect any that won't be painted.
4) Oil/Grease Bearings/Spindles/Nuts/Bolts and anything else that needs it.
5) Test/Check all parts for wear/cracks/knackered thread things that might cause issues later.
6) Complete rewire of all electrical components, Re solder contact points.
7) Fit new Motor (2.25HP Treadmill Motor with complete control board)
8 ) Rebuild and Test, Test, Test
9) Decide on a paint scheme (factory original or custom)
10) Disassemble, Paint then Assemble again.
11) Enjoy my hard work.
I'll be adding lots of pictures along the way and I'll be putting up the first ones a bit later on today.
I hope things go well and maybe it might help someone take a chance on an old machine.
Thanks for reading Guys and Gals.
p.s If there is anything I've left out please don't hesitate to let me know. The list will probably change along the way.
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First Problem I have come across before starting is that the Indexing plunger has snapped.
The plunger is missing and it appears to have snapped just before the tip that slots into the indexing holes.
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/myfordwood/img9.gif)
On the picture I can see how another one can be made I just need to work out how to get the broken piece out. :(
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Sounds like you've got it all worked out, Ryan. It will be interesting to follow this.
Les
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So how long do you think it might take ?
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Thanks Les,
I have it all worked out in my head but that's never a safe place to have things they tend to get lost and I almost never stick to a plan. lol
Hi Graham,
I gave it a good bash today and got it stripped down, I was expecting to run into problems with the strip down and for it to take me a few days but I got it all done in a few hours.
If I have more days like today I think I might be done in a few weeks. Waiting for bits/soda blasting/finding paint/waiting for paint to dry are all things that will slow me down.
But I might be lucky and find the things I need locally without having to order online and wait for delivery.
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I can't quite make out where the break is. Any chance you can reform the part or hold the bits together and in place with chemical metal?
Other than that, it looks to be an interesting project, will follow your efforts with interest.
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So I made some progress today stripping down the ML8 here is a run down of what I did and some pictures.
First I removed the Toolrest and Tailstock from the bed with a bit of WD40 on the clamp bolts they came loose without much trouble and they lifted right out.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1922294_10152796878953834_4623324464987907672_n.jpg?oh=98881204fa1aae366d588fb55e74e413&oe=54B794C1)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10413425_10152796878938834_6804437486184949200_n.jpg?oh=9ff339fc4c4e2fc0cec1eb5fb5587693&oe=54F669C0)
Next I removed the Outboard Toolrest the Motor and Motor Mount using the same process some WD40 and the bolts came right off, the threads seem fine too but I might buy new.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10593182_10152796878963834_7844801266300447195_n.jpg?oh=28039347eb4c5ffcae9acf71880b7ead&oe=54B085F6&__gda__=1425493570_da5f1b459bd1e33c3dc3b39da2386849)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10604717_10152796878978834_1964665997457674948_o.jpg)
Then I moved on to the Headstock and Bed I removed them in one and I'm going to wait for the assembly book to get here before I attempt to separate them.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1383526_10152796879233834_6536154290464790182_n.jpg?oh=95d3f527fd7be613ec27f800efe9c7c7&oe=54B24BA6&__gda__=1424324511_a4baf61cea1c607e5ad1a8fa70916002)
A job I was dreading was done with relative ease separating the spur from the spindle. A bit of WD40 and a spanner as a kind of ball joint splitter and it popped right out. Phew Both spindles are free of extras.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10354181_10152796878843834_4850103443330974727_n.jpg?oh=830920701a90bfc2c098e87fbbf4dd91&oe=54BB4542&__gda__=1424927572_0252253a36d09df64c6bdbf582be43d8)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1383102_10152796878878834_1922547018202000634_n.jpg?oh=07dc851920fb7a05b18259be0039ecca&oe=54A9FCE4&__gda__=1421277147_1302bd73e35397695fa856ada5db38ca)
All in all I think today was a success I'll get back to it tomorrow hopefully with the Assembly Manual and give things a decent clean possibly attack the bed to get the surface rust off and move it into the shed and out of the Mrs Sewing Room.
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Hi dr4g0nfly,
The Highlighted part is missing it didn't come with the Lathe.
The red line is where I thing it has snapped so the end piece is stuck inside the plunger hole and hitting the indexing holes ever so slightly.
I'll get it out but I'm just trying to mentally work out how to make a new one.
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All sounding good, You have made a great start, just hope you can get it back together without any bits left over :)
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You did do well, and not a problem popping the spur drive, albeit some rust and a tight fit, it is a taper after all and unless the machining doesn't match should release, normally with a sharp tap with a knockout bar, wonder how much force can be applied normally as a dead blow, depend on if it's a 4lb lump hammer or not. I've had an odd drive need a bit of persuading before now, as you'd done.
Can see this as being an interesting thread and very rewarding. Well done so far.
I'd wondered, although Myford may not list the ML8 whether a call to them may bring some likelihood as too what/how they could help you out.
Cheers David
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What a great project to undertake I'm looking forward to the progress reports
Good luck
Ed
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Just a small update today as I didn't get much done. My eldest slipped in the shower last night and bumped her noggin so I've been Comfort Dad for the day.
I did however have an awesome delivery from Mr Postman.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1898133_10152798933668834_2898004117107934115_n.jpg?oh=d746c2edc46aedc09713f6d967d21966&oe=54B57A42&__gda__=1421267401_96877acda450161e4041c1528050c703)
I also made a call to Myford LTD to ask if they had any ML8 Indexing plungers but alas they have only got a few face plates and some spindles. (I might contact them again to price them up.)
So aside from being a personal Teddy today I did strip down my Tail Stock.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10291079_10152798933678834_7245519692250583064_n.jpg?oh=5550103d912d4c94e087294c71add1cb&oe=54EB2B50&__gda__=1420820157_201c2d7fdddf3a11c31180f7e0a177a0)
Here is a little how to. These might not apply to everyone and I might be lucky enough to have caught it before things rusted to bad.
1) Remove the Tailstock from the bed by undoing the Quick Nut and slide the Tailstock off the end of the bed.
2) Once you have the Tailstock removed locate and unscrew the retaining screw at the back of the Tailstock between the hand wheel and Tailstock.
(It might be hidden under gunk) a thin flat head screwdriver will do the job nicely.
3) Once you have the retaining screw out pry out the Thrust Ring ( Washer cut in Half, Also might be hidden under some gunk)
There should be a gap at the bottom of the ring on the Face side to help pry it out.
4) Now the Hand Wheel is free to remove from the Tailstock Barrel by turning as if slackening of the Tailstock till it is free. Removing this lets you slide the Barrel freely back and for.
5) If you have a Live Centre/Revolving Centre or other centre attached now is the time to remove them. The ML8 had a set screw holding on the Spur and blocking the Barrel.
Once that was removed the Barrel slid out no trouble at all.
6) All that was left to remove was the Barrel Locking Lever and the Pad Bolt that just pulled out after the Barrel is removed.
There you have it Guys and Gals one stripped down Myford ML8 Tailstock.
I have to say I am enjoying myself greatly and learning so much already Thanks for reading and hope you enjoy.
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Hi guys I've made some progress but only a little.
First things first the Myford has been moved to its new home for now till I build a bigger shed.
Allowing me to work on it in peace and not have the Wifes sewing room filled with tools and rust lathe parts.
Anything for an easy life. :)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10273214_10152812965058834_754878709968953329_o.jpg)
Next I got a wire wheel and started stripping down the smaller parts removing the rust and left over paint. (I managed to loose the pictures of them looking all shiny and clean)
I've just given them a light coat of Red Oxide Primer to stop any further rusting wile I work on the rest.
I have painted the tool rest and the headstock cover so far and once they are dry I'll put them away safe and move on to the rest of the smaller parts.
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10704266_10152812962578834_7115086264647946922_o.jpg)
Money is going to be a major issue with this project and so is space .I've priced up some timber and hopefully I can build my new shed next week.
Thanks for reading guys.
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Well done, Ryan...the newly primed pieces look like new and it's amazing to see that just by looking at that belt-hatch cover one can tell exactly what it is...it's such a familiar piece of the machine.
Les
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Here is a picture of all the parts I managed to get into primer today.
I'll lay them all out tomorrow and get a decent picture and I should be able to finish the rest too.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/1602114_10152813582723834_8939911365273965621_o.jpg)
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Hi Ryan, Looks as if the lathe had not been in as bad of a condition as originally considered. How it had come apart, cleaned up well, you've no pitting to any of the parts seen so far and the smoothest of primed surfaces, can't beat red oxide, I'd wondered on for a more durable finish if etch primer, albeit not so nice to use, would have been better.
As you're progressing this has the makings of a lathe better than when it was new. Keep up the good work.
Cheers David
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Thanks for the support guys.
I have just removed the Starter Switch and I'm tying to find a wiring diagram but having no joy.
And one know the best way to wire it up or have a diagram of a similar switch.
Here is the switch.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10679505_10152814913148834_5756280476525050676_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/10623323_10152814913288834_2456465508545240065_o.jpg)
Thanks in advance guys and gals if any on here. :)
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At best you've already started with the picture.. maybe the way to take lots of pic's as to where the wiring went.
Cheers David
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Hi David,
That is part of the problem lol
The wire coming out from the bottom of the box fell off when I moved the box and I can't see where it was connected.
There was only 2 wire coming in at the top and neither are coloured or marked in anyway.
I am wiring up the box as a mains Power On and Shut Off switch but most of the electrics will be handled by the Treadmill Controller. (there is a kill switch and power on/off on the panel)
I think this is how it was wired.
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Firstly I'm no expert.
It looks like a connector block to me so if the live is on the left hand top terminal the live should then go on the left hand terminal bottom, neutral middle top and bottom earth right hand side. The earth must be on the right hand side as that's where it's connected at the moment. The switch then just makes the contact or breaks it, on/off.
If you take the switch in to a local electrical wholesaler they will be able to tell you I'm sure.
Ed
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Thanks Ed,
That's what I was thinking I just wasn't 100% sure.
I thought there might be a different process with replacing old lathe cable. (3 phase single phase and all that jazz)
It has/had a twin core cable at the moment in really bad condition am I better off replacing with a 3 core or should I stick with a twin core?
The power will come from a plug into the box and then the rest of the wiring is from the treadmill set up.
(I'll put pictures of that up tomorrow.)
Essentially I will have a double safety set-up and it might be fiddly but I don't want the kids booping buttons on the Treadmill console and starting up the lathe.
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Thanks Ed,
That's what I was thinking I just wasn't 100% sure.
I thought there might be a different process with replacing old lathe cable. (3 phase single phase and all that jazz)
It has/had a twin core cable at the moment in really bad condition am I better off replacing with a 3 core or should I stick with a twin core?
The power will come from a plug into the box and then the rest of the wiring is from the treadmill set up.
(I'll put pictures of that up tomorrow.)
Essentially I will have a double safety set-up and it might be fiddly but I don't want the kids booping buttons on the Treadmill console and starting up the lathe.
I suggest strongly that you ensure that whatever cable you use, it is sufficiently heavy duty to carry the current that the motor will use.
MC
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Thanks for the advice MC,
Do you know how the new wire gauge system works out in old money?
It's all in mm2 now and not rated by amperage.
I have been looking at toughened 2.5mm2 stuff it says its for industrial usage.
Ryan
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Ryan
If it's a 240v lathe drawing no more than 13 amps then you would not need more than a 2.5 sq mm cable you could just use a 3 core flex.
Ed
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If you had a 2hp motor that would be roughly 1500W, which equates to around 6 amps. 1.5mm squared cable would be ample for that load. You will need to use three core cable to ensure you have an earth.
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Hello again guys,
Another small update tonight I finished the power box today and I don't mean to blow my own horn but Toot! I think it came out pretty good.
First I flatted out the primer and coated everything in black gloss.
Here is a picture with buttons in for a test fit but it didn't look complete in all black.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10603531_10152817758603834_5569069186618579431_n.jpg?oh=3c78c646071f42eec9ddc0d16a0443de&oe=54DCE05B&__gda__=1425240141_89008abef25d5c04c1991c89df84bb5b)
On to stage 2 I masked off the Logo area and based it in white primer and then left it under my desk lamp to bake for a little bit.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1378134_10152817758728834_7670893473818538457_n.jpg?oh=159349a87f3fdc2828abbde1a5ab1b2a&oe=54AAC1B4)
Next came adding colour well more black but thinned a bit and then the antique gold for the finish.
Without the start button.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/s960x960/1614039_10152817758818834_4644516469989875194_o.jpg)
With the start button.
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10407389_10152817758943834_163142851503414919_n.jpg?oh=2881cd1cf798cf01140053f7ed624ed4&oe=54DC96C0)
The thinned black and the gold are all painted by hand and all that's needed is a clean up and to find a hard clear lacquer to clear coat everything.
Thanks again for reading and supporting me with this project guys and thanks for all the advice and help with all the questions I've asked so far.
I'm sure there will be more to come.
Ryan
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What an amazing finish, Ryan....you're obviously putting heart and soul into this. You'll have a lathe to be proud of.
Les
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Very posh, well done so far.
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Thanks guys,
The only issue now is because the power/switch box came out so well its made me think that maybe I might be better off sticking with a vintage style paint scheme.
Something Similar to the Singer Sewing Machines I have 2 under the stairs that I restored for my wife before she got her new machine.
1 from the 30's with a hand crank and 1 later one from the 50s with hand crank and removable motor attachment.
(http://www.halfmoonbay.co.uk/assets/product/340/340/1/02DC04.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/Xz0AAOxyMxpRphuM/$(KGrHqEOKpwFGNTyi71mBRphuMlIgg~~60_35.JPG)
The Gun/Silver Smith work on them is beautiful and the style will match what I have already done.
Ryan
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Your intent on making life easy foryourself, arn't you!
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Oooooooh Yes! If its worth doing it's worth over doing. :D
So I hit an issue today and wanted to know your ideas on the best way to approach it.
The Grub/Set screws on the spindle outboard side and pully are close to a 3 size allen key but not quote a 3 one of each pair will undo but the other won't.
I want to remove them with as little damage to them as possible so I can take them shopping to find new ones.
Any Ideas would be a massive help.
Thanks Ryan.
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The Grub/Set screws on the spindle outboard side and pully are close to a 3 size allen key but not quote a 3 one of each pair will undo but the other won't.
I want to remove them with as little damage to them as possible so I can take them shopping to find new ones.
Any Ideas would be a massive help.
Thanks Ryan.
THere are two series of Allen keys; modern ones are millimetres but earlier ones are Imperial sizes. If 3mm is too small, it might be 1/8 inch.
If you are located near SG12 9JY and want to borrow some Imperial Allen keys to try, please contact me off list (If there's a way of doing that)
Another suggestion is to try TORX bits in the holes and see if one of those fits better
MCB
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Hi MCB,
Thanks for the offer and thanks for making me slap myself for being so dense, I had a brain fart and forgot about Torx bits,
The 3mm is to small and I don't want to round them off I tried giving it a turn and it slipped so I gave up before things went really bad.
Prevention is better than cure and all that Jazz.
More pictures to come tomorrow with a bit of a write up of my process for doing stuff. :)
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Hi Ryan - Just looking at the exploded diagram for my ML8 and can't see a grub screw in the outrigger, I wonder where it is. You can bet your boots that it's not metric though, metric components only came in after serial No: N157433M
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As I'm reading this, would it be the pulley retaining grub screws to the spindle, from my only option of the cutaway drawing of the lathe posted in the other thread, there could also be grub screws locking what may well be the thrust ring for bearing pre-load which would be the outboard side.
Any thread size as mentioned would be Imperial, given it's unlikely the lathe has been apart since manufacture, hence not modified to metric should the threads been damaged.
Very odd thing has come out of this I'd just been looking at my Mystro manual and there are listed 1/4" BSF x 3/16" socket set screws locating the spindle/bearing end cover.
Cheers David
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Hi guys thanks for the help.
The red outlines indicate the screws that can be removed with a 3mm Allen the Blue are the one that are being stubborn.
Its says 1/4"BSF x 1/4" LONG for the Adjusting Collar and 2BA x 1/2" Long for the Pully Grubscrew.
I'll get my TORX set out today and see if I can get them out without tearing the heads to pieces.
With the spindle out I can finish flatting down the headstock and base it in primer and all that is left is the Cabinet. I'm getting there.
Thanks again Ryan.
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The red outlines indicate the screws that can be removed with a 3mm Allen the Blue are the one that are being stubborn.
Its says 1/4"BSF x 1/4" LONG for the Adjusting Collar and 2BA x 1/2" Long for the Pully Grubscrew.
BA Socket set screws require Imperial Allen keys.
2BA requires 3/32 Allen key
1/$ BSF requires 1/8 Allen key
It's worth marking the positions of the screws on the shaft (are there flats?) to reassemble correctly.
MC
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I had the right size TORX bit and I've just had them out.
The Bearing adjusting collar is threaded so the set screws on that can only go in one place.
The Pully might be threaded too and I'm not really keen on taking the whole assembly apart at the moment but I will need to at some point to replace the plunger.
I've removed what I can and masked off the spindle and bearings now I just need to sand and prime the head stock tail end bed support is done.
It's so cold though I think I might need a heater in the shed. :(
Thanks again for the help and advice guys.
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The Bearing adjusting collar is threaded so the set screws on that can only go in one place.
The Pully might be threaded too and I'm not really keen on taking the whole assembly apart at the moment but I will need to at some point to replace the plunger.
I apologise if I expressed myself badly
I asked if there were flats on the shaft (spindle in your drawing). THe socket set screws can have different points - cone, cup, dog, etc.
There might be a flat (or two - since there are two socket set screws) on the shaft so that the collar is replaced at the correct azimuth.
On your drawing, the screws are Annual Return 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock. There may be marks or flats on the shaft corresponding to those positions (or even a keyway - difficult to tell from drawing)
MC
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Ah I'm with you now, lol
I'll make a mark at Top Dead Centre so once I have taken it apart I can make sure it goes back together the same way even if there isn't flats on the spindle there might be indentations from the grub screws.
It's hard to tell on the spindle as the bearing housing is blocking me from seeing anything beyond it but I hope there are flat's and good ones, The ones on my draper are crap and if I get a catch the pulleys get knocked out of alignment.
I don't want to remove the bearings till I'm ready to tackle it all as one job.
Ryan
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Back with another update guys and gals.
I finished flatting down the Tail End Bed Support and the Headstock today and got them blasted in a coat of Primer.
Now that is all the individual parts of the Myford in a first coat of primer so with any luck I shouldn't get any more rust spots.
Next jobs are flatting the Cabinet and getting them in primer then comes the rebuild and motor upgrade I'll get pictures of that tomorrow in between sanding.
Here is the Tail End Support in Bare Metal.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10805695_10152826160868834_3203244125911620755_n.jpg?oh=11976acd35ba8db4edddcc9d3c3d1836&oe=54ED94DA&__gda__=1423972812_18aeed12f82a0f9859ce3f8905180ab3)
Here is the Headstock partly sanded.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10686912_10152826161013834_2094107100420338779_n.jpg?oh=b3f8af572a7437ae11fe218f03a1b36b&oe=54F1F521&__gda__=1423043383_5fd6988c138e7b1b067760080c7e14f4)
Here is the Tail End Support in beautiful Red Oxide. lol
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10658773_10152826161223834_7840938418818712732_o.jpg)
Here is the Headstock just after a coat of primer it's still wet cause I had to rush out to get the kids from school so I snapped a picture quickly.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10801506_10152826174373834_993699261059796429_n.jpg?oh=68c636405e917e7f8e4737ef73456fdc&oe=54D78F8D&__gda__=1423973597_15032f976a8c3d1b198ca74cd0548d2f)
I'm out of primer now but I've got a long process of sanding down the Cabinet ready for paint before I can start mocking things up for the test fit.
Once again thanks for reading and hope you are still finding this interesting,
Any questions or criticisms are welcomed.
Ryan
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The red outlines indicate the screws that can be removed with a 3mm Allen the Blue are the one that are being stubborn.
Its says 1/4"BSF x 1/4" LONG for the Adjusting Collar and 2BA x 1/2" Long for the Pully Grubscrew.
BA Socket set screws require Imperial Allen keys.
2BA requires 3/32 Allen key
1/$ BSF requires 1/8 Allen key
It's worth marking the positions of the screws on the shaft (are there flats?) to reassemble correctly.
MC
It show copper caps under the grub screws for the collar in order not to damage the threads, may also be the same with the pulley, the screws locate on flats on the spindle there.
Excellent work so far, well done.
Cheers David
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Hi David,
I found out the hard way that the little copper caps are really hard to find in the dark under the bench when one for a wander.
Crisis averted with the help of my head torch, Pah! and the wife said I'd never use it. :)
Ryan
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Ryan
This is one very impressive rebuild :)
Good Luck
Ed
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I found out the hard way that the little copper caps are really hard to find in the dark under the bench when one for a wander.
I found this web page:
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-57904.html
which makes some suggestions about source of replacements!
MC
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Hi Ryan, never used one of these lathes so I am not familiar with it, but on some other machines you will find that on removing the grub screw that holds the pulley in place there can sometimes be another grub screw beneath it.
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Thanks for the advice BHT,
I will check for hidden grub screws under the ones on there it might explain why once slackened off the pulley did nothing.
Ryan
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Little Update and I'll post some pictures later but I am now committed to Black with Gold Pinstripe.
I know its cheating a little bit but I have ordered some Gold Coachline Tape. :)
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Hi Guys,
I'm back at last and have loads of updates.
We had terrible rain and the shed sprung a leak a week before I went in for knee surgery. I haven't been well after developing a blood clot from the surgery and needed to have Ulnar Nerve Surgery too.
I'm happy to say that both the shed and the lathe survived and I finally finished restoring the old girl once I'm at the computer I'll upload some pictures of my project.
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Hi again guys here are the pictures I promised.
Once I have time I will post some W.I.P pictures and dig up the old ones.
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Tres chic! 8)
Les
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Hello Ryan, very well done, you now have a really pretty lathe, now start turning. (glad to hear you are on the mend too)
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Thanks guys.
I've done a bit of turning to check everything is working as it should.
I had some turning chisels that needed new handles so I made some. :)
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And very nice they are too, (don't forget to sand with the grain )
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Proper Job well done on the Lathe and Tool handles.
Regards John