AWGB Woodturning Forum
General Category => Tool tips & reviews => Topic started by: Bryan Milham on April 07, 2013, 08:43:26 PM
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I've heard it said that you can't sell an item if it has a crack...
...but, we've all seen the American turnings where they make a feature of the crack by insetting crushed gemstone (normally turquoise). Sometimes difficult to get hold of here in the UK and except for really fancy pieces, probably not for experimentation. Well I've come across a cheap version.
Being dragged around the Range again (by SWMBO) I saw these, they are plastic granules, several colours are available but I went for the Blue. Probably a good 500 grammes in the tub as well, so plenty to play with.
The Vase is not finished but I've posted it to show the effect. I ground out a grain line to a couple mm deep, and used epoxy to stick in the granules. It's a messy job, I suggest some sort of protective glove is used and a slow drying epoxy.
Once set, it turns no harder than the wood, and sands well giving the granular effect of crushed gemstone.
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Neat and effective. I have done similar using metal powders and keep pots of different coloured sawdust for this purpose. Never thought of looking for this sort of material though or doing it along a grain line. Another idea to put into my ever growing list of ideas.
Pete
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Pete,
I've used sawdust and CA and even coffee grounds if the timber is spalted. I've never used metal filings as I've never had any.
I always liked the American crushed gemstone idea, this is a cheap, simple alternative that looks very similar.
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I have some brass filings I got from a friendly key cutter but I also use brass and aluminium powders you can get from various lab dealers online, a lot cheaper than the stuff from craft shops. I did try using some dyed sawdust but as it has to go into the crack wet the dye seeped and it looked 'orrible LOL. Your idea looks much better. There is a split in the foot of this goblet turned from wet oak and left to 'mature' deliberately for a re-enactment commission. and it's filled with brass powder
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Hi all
Often my scorch oak pieces sell quicker than any others.
You may find this interesting.
http://noelcarlyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/534358_240332512755877_1319085419_n1.jpg (http://noelcarlyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/534358_240332512755877_1319085419_n1.jpg)
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Hi all
Often my scorch oak pieces sell quicker than any others.
You may find this interesting.
http://noelcarlyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/534358_240332512755877_1319085419_n1.jpg (http://noelcarlyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/534358_240332512755877_1319085419_n1.jpg)
I am in good company then albeit I am using brass LOL.
Pete
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Hello,
I really like what do did with the plastic granules. Looks good!
Mark, the picture of the broken Japanese bowl and its caption is inspirational!
Robert
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Looks really good and adds something to your design. Does the plastic key to the wood OK?
I turn a lot of pens and use mica powders and CA glue as a filler, these are iridescent -you can get some stunning effects in all colours. I believe mica powders are silica/mineral based and so are similar to the gem stones the Americans are using. I haven't seen these used before by turners, but someone like yourself may no better.
I have just bought a pressure pot and will be experimenting with urethane resins and mica powders to impregnate cracks in wood, I too believe you can really enhance the natural beauty of wood in this way.
Thank you for sharing your ideas and work.
Haggy
NB If you do experiment with them let me know how you get on - some change colour when mixed with CA!
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Haggy,
I've had no problem with the granules coming out/breaking away, the epoxy holds them very well. Having said that it's a messy job. But I saw a YouTube film the other day of someone setting minerals with CA, so I might try that next.
I've been oiling the vase day and night for a while now, it's really starting to build up a high shine, I'll pop-up a close up of the granules sometime soon so the effect can clearly be seen.
As for silica I'd like to see the effect that creates (hint, hint - piccy please).
I've just started playing with Mica suspended in liquid pigment. So far only as it comes - a Matt effect, the effect is very subtle, you see it without knowing what you see, I'll try to find something to raise it to a gloss sometime. Unfortunately it does not photograph at all!
I imagine Mica would look better using your method, the mica being in a larger 'mass'.
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Not sure yet how to get pictures onto this page, I'm rubbish at ICT and not sure what I am doing. Much prefer making things. That said I am proud to have logged into this forum and speak to people with similar interests and great knowledge, such as yourself.
I teach (or try to) Art and Design and so we experiment a lot with ideas-woodturning is loved by the kids and myself. We make lots of small artefacts on the lathe, mica is great for introducing colour and filling small cracks/holes.
What liquid pigment did you suspend mica in? I simply inject thin CA glue into the crack and then push the mica powder into it, is polishes beautifully. I intend to try mixing it with epoxy resin as this might be good for larger cracks.
Love your method too. Must show it to the kids-they will love it.
Look forward to seeing a close up of your work-does it take you a long time to picture your work and post it?
Haggy
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Haggy,
I've posted a picture of how to post a picture. Let me know if it does not make sense.
As for what I use - I've no idea. It's something I picked up taking SWMBO around one of those Craft makers events. A 50ml spray bottle with a strong water based pigment (stains fingers for days) with the Mica suspended in it.
It would probably easy enough to make up something similar, but if for kid's, I'd suggest something that washes out more easily!
I've never thought to buy Mica the way you use it. To me it's always been an insulator behind transistors etc. I'll have to explore the area. I have used the micro glitter you can get these days, that can look good if used in small quantities.
Andy,
If you want to copy this out and into the 'Posting Images Tutorial' thread, feel free. Also if you'd like me to modify it in any way, just ask.
I'll pick up on this later, and post some more piccies - but now I need to get sorted out, then the SIL (and her cat!) to the train station and then myself over to the Mark Sanger demo in Burnham.
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Bryan,
you may want to explain about reducing picture size otherwise the post doesn't work sometimes.
Haggy, welcome to the forum,as an Art &Design teacher your views will go down very well here as we do have some heated discussions ,all very friendy of course, about some of the items posted .
Regards
John BHT
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Fresh back from the Mark Sanger Demo and aching to get into the garage and reproduce some of what I've seen, but the wife want's me to vacuum first (after she's finished watching whatever!
John,
We posted everything needed to post a picture the other day, including reducing the size in this thread http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.php/topic,1368.0.html (http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.php/topic,1368.0.html). However when I looked at the sticky thread, there was no picture of the webpage identifying where the buttons etc were, so this is what I've added.
If Andy want's to amalgamate everything into one and add it to the sticky it would all be in one place.
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Thank you for you help with posting pics- everything makes sense. Also thanks to John for his concern and kind words. Is it Ok if I show some sixth formers some of the discussions, particularly debates on proportion, H&S etc as it makes things exciting and more real than a text book?
I have just spent 30 mins in my workshop to make a pen and use mica powder as a filler. I had to flute the barrel to make a crack. I used copper mica powder to match the pen fittings, I'm now having to use the stylus part for this message as I got glue on my fingers!
You can see from the mica rings the metallic finish you get, the fluting needs more work to get it perfect. It is a messy process, I want to experiment with epoxy resins to make a paste.
The mica powder cost two pounds, and will not go as far as your plastic beads- so your idea wins on price. Do you know the type of plastic you used?
I will now try posting my pic (if my wife gives me a few more mins).
Haggy
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Hello Haggy and welcome to the Forum very nice pen with the inlay.This one takes the Biscuit. :) :) Regards John
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Haggy,
Glad my quick explanation helped, though you might follow the link to discover ways to reduce the image size.
I like the look of the silica inset, and can see why you like it. Is it always that colour or does it come in or can you tint it other colours?
As far as using epoxy goes, start a thread asking for advise, we have a few turners who do very well with the stuff. You never know, you might offer up some ideas they can use as well.
As to what type of plastic I've acquired, nope no idea. As a guess I'd say it was a thermoplastic like the stuff normally used in injection moulding machines.
And as for showing your pupils anything from the site, the AWGB exists to promote Woodturning, one of the committee will give you 'Chapter & Verse' but not only would there not be a problem, but I'l warrant that the nearest club would assist you, if you asked.
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dr4gonfly
Thank you for helping me get started as well as the sound advice. I never thought of starting a 'thread'. I will do that tomorrow before school starts and work takes over. It could really help.
It was a relief to see my image appear - I will reduce the image size next time. I was amazed at how you could zoom in -there is no hiding place for blemishes!
I have got about six different colours of mica, I chose copper to match the pen fittings, but could have used any colour.
Great for you to be so positive with the kids, some of them are so naturally talented, it takes me by surprise.
this is the longest I've been on my computer and my wife getting suspicious!
Haggy
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Mica appears to a available in numerous colours from here http://www.sensoryperfection.co.uk/store/WsDefault.asp?Cat=ColoursandMicas&Sub=86&isThumbs=Yes&Thumbs=100
Paul
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I never thought of starting a 'thread'. I will do that tomorrow before school starts and work takes over. It could really help.
Tomorrow is Sunday - to us - where are you?
As for the Good Lady, get her to look with you, especially the gallery, she'll soon start with the 'I like that - could you make me one?'
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Mica appears to a available in numerous colours from here http://www.sensoryperfection.co.uk/store/WsDefault.asp?Cat=ColoursandMicas&Sub=86&isThumbs=Yes&Thumbs=100
Paul
Ooohh...
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A couple of close ups of the granular pellets in a (almost) finished piece - It needs a good buffing now.
granular
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That looks good-the plastic appears to stand out from the surface, but that would be impossible.
Did you hand carve along the grain? This will give my students something to ponder on.
One final question, what is SWMBO? I'm no good with acronyms-family related?
Regards
Haggy
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SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed
I have found when using inlays of different materials or woods that the different densities can result in one standing proud of the other when sanding. I would imagine that the mica inlay would be harder so it could be proud of the surrounding wood?
Pete
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I don't think you can say it stands proud but you can feel a difference when you run your fingers over it. But wood being wood, if it moves even the slightest bit with humidity change I'm sure it will become more noticeable.
I actually posted the close-ups so the grain effect could be seen, it does not turn into a homogenized mass/mess.
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DF it looks fine. I often have cracks some get filled some are left. I guess it depends on the piece and the effect thats required. A lot of the Aussie hardwoods will develop hairline cracks which will fill successfully with CA and do not change the overall look and feel of the piece
Like you I have my coffee grinds which are most suitable for the kind of Burrs I get. I also have a range of powdered metals ie Brass, Bronze, Copper and Aluminum. I havent use powdered metal much of late. I find a fair bit of care is required to keep the lines and consistency of fill accurate otherwise it looks very chunky.
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Bryan,
I don't know how I missed these pictures or I would have commented on them sooner :-[
What a lovely finish you have got there,no bleeding or staining,I like it.
regards
John BHT
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John.
Thank you but can I ask what you mean by no bleeding or staining. I can't work out the context of the coment.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi Bryan,
what I mean is the resin has not stained or bled into the surrounding timber,the join of the 2 materials is sharp ,clear and crisp.
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John,
something I'd never though about as it's the first time I've ever done something like this inset material.
But thanks for the heads-up, I'll know to watch out for the possibility of it happening in the future.