What hollowing tools would you make sure to have in a situation like this, Fuzzyturns?
I have a range of hollowing tools. I won't make any claims which one is better or worse, but I can tell you what I do with them and what doesn't work for me.
The first one is a Robert Sorby Hollowmaster, with a scraping tip. This is primarily good for undercuts and the top of hollow forms where you have to reach those parts right next to the opening. Doesn't reach very deep.
Next is The Crown Revolution Hollowing System (that's the one with the brass bar and foam covered handle). I only have the straight round 5/8" bar, with the articulated tip. Works very well on wet wood, not so great on dry wood. Can reach about 6-8" deep, but is useless after that as the bar starts to vibrate (it's square and not thick enough).
Then a tool made by a club mate, consisting of a 1/2" square steel bar with a 6mm round carbide cutter, and a self-made handle. Simon Hope offers a very similar one (6mm straight). Excellent for open hollow forms and end grain, but also starts to vibrate after about 5" depth.
Then I have a Simon Hope hollowing tool in swan neck shape, 8mm round carbide cutter, 5/8" square bar, with a self-made handle. This is an excellent tool, especially on end grain or wet wood. Can be very aggressive so it does need some practice. Again, I think Simon stopped making this shape a while ago. The closest would be his 12mm HSS hook tool. This starts to vibrate after about 8".
Finally a self made tool I acquired from the estate of a turner who had passed away. It has a 15mm round steel cutter on an articulated link set into a 20mm square steel bar, with a very long handle. This will go as deep as 12" without any trouble, and possible further (haven't tried that yet), and it produces an excellent finish at the bottom of hollow forms and vases.
In essence, if you want to go deep, you need a really solid square steel bar and a sharp tip, and quite a bit of practice. The forces that at play can be considerable.
