Author Topic: Woodwax 22  (Read 4227 times)

Offline iantivenan

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Woodwax 22
« on: November 23, 2019, 04:58:36 PM »
Hi all
I use chestnut woodwax 22 as a finish on most of my projects, but lately the wax has become hard and brittle in the tin. Is there any way to revive it, or is it time for a new tin. I've had it for about 3 years now as it's such a big tin and you only use a small amount.
Thanks.
Ian

Offline burywoodturners

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2019, 05:41:10 PM »
Mash it up add a small amount of cellulose thinners and put the lid back on and leave it overnight.
Somewill saythat it might heat up and burst into flames, I doubt it but store it away from other flammable materials to be on the safe side
Ron

Offline Duncan A

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2019, 05:47:09 PM »
If you're unhappy with using sanding sealer, ask Chestnut what to use. They're pretty helpful in my experience.
Duncan

Offline Paul Hannaby

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2019, 05:55:49 PM »
Most wax polishes are a mix of wax and a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the wax goes hard. Adding more solvent with soften the wax. White spirit or Turps are probably better solvents than cellulose for wax polishes. You can also use some mineral oil.

I heat the wax in a double boiler to melt it, then add the solvent, then mix it and let it cool.

Offline iantivenan

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2019, 07:19:10 PM »
Most wax polishes are a mix of wax and a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the wax goes hard. Adding more solvent with soften the wax. White spirit or Turps are probably better solvents than cellulose for wax polishes. You can also use some mineral oil.

I heat the wax in a double boiler to melt it, then add the solvent, then mix it and let it cool.
Thanks for the replies lads
I think i'll try some mineral oil as I have a bottle.
I'll let you know the result.
Thanks
Ian.

Offline BrianH

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2019, 10:56:47 PM »
i use the mash-it-up with white spirit, no melting, no hassle.
Brian

Offline Derek

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2019, 11:38:28 PM »
The easiest thing to use to help revive the wax is white spirit do not use cellulose thinners. If you ask Tery at Chestnut he will tell you the same the same applies to the guilt creams.
Add a little at a time until the consistancy is what it originally was.

Offline iantivenan

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2019, 04:41:16 PM »
The easiest thing to use to help revive the wax is white spirit do not use cellulose thinners. If you ask Tery at Chestnut he will tell you the same the same applies to the guilt creams.
Add a little at a time until the consistancy is what it originally was.
Thanks Derek.
I think I will use white spirit, as my green gilt cream has gone brittle as well, might as well do both.
Thanks again.

Offline julcle

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #8 on: November 25, 2019, 10:27:07 AM »
Hi - I will go along with Paul and Derek on this one as it's a question that comes up quite often on the Chestnut forum. Do not use cellulose Thinners as you will ruin the tin, use Turps and it should be fine. What I have done in the past is heat it up on the kitchen stove (you don't need much heat add a little turps and let it set, repeat if you haven't added enough a spoon full or two is probably all you will need.  - Julian
Location: S. Wales
Crowvalley Woodturners
Julian

Offline fuzzyturns

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #9 on: November 25, 2019, 11:38:04 AM »
julcle is right: you need to use turpentine. The best is proper gum turpentine which you can buy from any artists supply shop or online. Slowly heat up the tin in a bath of water (i.e. place it in a big pan with water) until the wax melts, gently stir in the turps and then let it set again. In order to get a creamy consistency you will need to add around 50% of the current wax volume. Less -> harder, more -> softer.
Cellulose thinner will most likely ruin your wax.

Offline Chestnut Products

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #10 on: November 25, 2019, 04:39:21 PM »
Thanks to everyone who suggested asking us - that's the best way to get the correct and SAFE answer.

Turps or White Spirit is indeed the thing to use here, although it won't return the wax to its original state. The solvent that we use isn't available 'over the counter'. The main difference is that the drying time will be longer using other solvents.
I'd say that 50% by volume is too much, add a little at a time as it's impossible to take it out afterwards.

DO NOT put the wax anywhere near a naked flame. Even as a solid lump it will still have some solvent lurking in there - and that's a solvent with the flammability of petrol folks! If you must warm it up do as others suggest and use a hot water bath. Not a lot of heat is needed anyway.

And always keep the lid on the tin; it has to have a wide opening because of the product that it is, but that allows the solvent inside to evaporate - and it's a quick drying solvent so it doesn't need much encouragement. Pop the lid back on as soon as you've taken some wax out and you should be able to get pretty much to the bottom of the tin without worrying about it going hard. Anyone who's seen one of my recent demos will have also seen the tin of wax I'm using that is pretty much empty!

Offline michaelb

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2019, 05:29:02 PM »
Full marks to Chestnut products for responding, to often some suppliers if you have a problem, cant be bothered to help with advice .. example today no names Bandsaw needed new part only 10 years old, phoned to order part with number told no longer stocked,  but can get one from USA part total cost £44.00 Went to my local Tractor and Engineering garage for help one in stock cost £3.50 ..and a free coffee .     

We need to support companies that support us so well done Chestnut.
No pockets in shrouds spend it now

Offline iantivenan

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2019, 08:19:20 PM »
Thanks to everyone who suggested asking us - that's the best way to get the correct and SAFE answer.

Turps or White Spirit is indeed the thing to use here, although it won't return the wax to its original state. The solvent that we use isn't available 'over the counter'. The main difference is that the drying time will be longer using other solvents.
I'd say that 50% by volume is too much, add a little at a time as it's impossible to take it out afterwards.

DO NOT put the wax anywhere near a naked flame. Even as a solid lump it will still have some solvent lurking in there - and that's a solvent with the flammability of petrol folks! If you must warm it up do as others suggest and use a hot water bath. Not a lot of heat is needed anyway.

And always keep the lid on the tin; it has to have a wide opening because of the product that it is, but that allows the solvent inside to evaporate - and it's a quick drying solvent so it doesn't need much encouragement. Pop the lid back on as soon as you've taken some wax out and you should be able to get pretty much to the bottom of the tin without worrying about it going hard. Anyone who's seen one of my recent demos will have also seen the tin of wax I'm using that is pretty much empty!

Thanks chestnut products.
I did try to ask this question on the weekly e-mail you send me, but it would'nt let me for some reason. Mind you i'm not very good at this e- mail sending lark ::).
Ian.

Offline Chestnut Products

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Re: Woodwax 22
« Reply #13 on: November 26, 2019, 12:28:52 PM »
Thank you - we're always happy to help, but we don't always see questions on forums. There are too many to monitor, it was coincidence I saw this one early.
Emails are always better, even if it's just one to point me at a question on a forum.

Ian, you should be able to just hit 'reply' on the weekly Newsletter and it will get to me. Sometimes though things don't work how they're meant to!

Quick plug for our weekly Newsletter, there's not much news in it but always hints and tips. Sign up at the bottom of any page on our website. You can never have too much information.