Author Topic: Faceplate screw strenghts ?  (Read 7101 times)

Offline Derek

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Re: Faceplate screw strenghts ?
« Reply #30 on: November 15, 2018, 02:17:36 PM »
The screws Percy mentioned above sound like they are worth a look. I don't mean to side-track the thread but may I, as a beginner, ask a question? In the photo of the faceplate, there are 8 holes on the rim that do not go through to the front. On close study, they do not seem equally spaced or on the same pitch circle diameter? What are they for?
Thanks in advance.

Yes it is for balancing the faceplate instead of adding weights on the plate they drill holes on the heavy side which will stop any shaking of the lathe when used that is if the wood screwed to it is balanced

Offline Wood spinner

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Re: Faceplate screw strenghts ?
« Reply #31 on: November 15, 2018, 09:59:44 PM »
The screws Percy mentioned above sound like they are worth a look. I don't mean to side-track the thread but may I, as a beginner, ask a question? In the photo of the faceplate, there are 8 holes on the rim that do not go through to the front. On close study, they do not seem equally spaced or on the same pitch circle diameter? What are they for?
Thanks in advance.

Hi ,Yes the 8 holes are from the makers and are ballancing

Offline Wood spinner

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Re: Faceplate screw strenghts ?
« Reply #32 on: November 16, 2018, 10:06:49 AM »
I have used a combination of screws and hot glue to hold awkward pieces sucj as burrs or pieces with bark to faceplates. Personally I am never that sure of the strenth of screws and  will always bring the tailstock up if possible for safety. If turning away from the bed then definitely a case of belt and braces, e.g screws and hot glue. Remember also that the lathe itself can be a problem if the piece is so heavy that it needs bolts. What does that weight spinning even at low rpm do to the bearings?

Pete

Pete , my lathe can turn up to 300kgs

Offline Wood spinner

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Re: Faceplate screw strenghts ?
« Reply #33 on: November 16, 2018, 10:23:42 AM »
A lot of my work involves designing and building climbing walls, so I have to do a lot of research and testing on screws as these are the things that hold many climbing walls up. For all our timber construction we use KTX screws from Concept Distribution in Blackburn. We have pull tested these screws on a test jig, both in shear, and for a straight out pull, and I am constantly amazed by how strong they are. Our weapon of choice is normally the 5x50 KTX interior screw which we merrily apply 350kg loads to on the test rig when screwed into 18mm birch plywood, and we've never had one fail.
Over the years we have tried all sorts of screws, but these appear to be the most reliable and by far the strongest.

My advice is to always put plenty of screws in, balance the screw placements in the faceplate so they are evenly positioned, and make sure they are done up tightly enough so the wood is pulled tightly onto the face plate, but don't go too heavy handed otherwise you'll start to wind the screw thread through the wood and weaken the fixing.

The story of screw chucks breaking is a little un-nerving, but I guess you only have one fixing so its doing a lot of work. Plenty of screws on a face plate seems like a better plan!

Hi Percy

If the screws I have don't work I will try your suggested , thanks