Sycamore bowl

[mickdundee]

Third time of trying to upload and it's going to have to be one picture at a time as every time I go back to photobucket for a second picture I lose what I've already typed 
Bowl is 13" diameter which is the biggest I've done so far. No splits in the timber for a change but quite a bit of worm damage 
So far I haven't oiled it but will probably put Danish on it. It's been sanded to 1000g. Happy with the outside but struggled to get a good rest position inside and there are some tooling marks. Gonna need to invest in a large curved rest perhaps.

Anyway here's pic 1 c&c welcome. I'm here to learn

[mickdundee]

Pic2 showing I used my chuck in expanding format. It's an old duplex chuck and has little variation clamping onto a 2" foot which I felt would have been too small for this bowl

[seventhdevil]

nothing wrong with that one mick.  i particularly like the decoration on the foot...

if you need help positioning the toolrest then get your arse back over here and i'll help you out.

[Lazurus]

Nice detail on the foot, good amount of worms to, your wood pile must be riddled. lol.

[fuzzyturns]

Nice bowl, I agree. Nice idea for the foot, but the rings/beads/grooves are a little uneven in shape. Plus, over time this might warp a little and then the wide foot will make the bowl wobble.
I can see the tooling marks on the inside. They are not that bad, and I am sure with a little more sanding (at 120 or 150 grit) you would have gotten rid of them. In addition: On wood like that (and a functional bowl like this) there's little point sanding to 1000 grit. I sand my bowls to 240 or 320, and then the finish does the rest.

[Les Symonds]

Hi Mick...really good as an early attempt at bowls. What will you do to treat the timber to ensure that there's no live worm left in it?
Les

[mickdundee]

nothing wrong with that one mick.  i particularly like the decoration on the foot...

if you need help positioning the toolrest then get your arse back over here and i'll help you out.

Thanks Steve, I think it's more the bulk of my outboard rig and the rest itself.

Nice detail on the foot, good amount of worms to, your wood pile must be riddled. lol.

I'm gonna blame Steve for that mate, it was a board of syc that he gave me a couple of months back 

Nice bowl, I agree. Nice idea for the foot, but the rings/beads/grooves are a little uneven in shape. Plus, over time this might warp a little and then the wide foot will make the bowl wobble.
I can see the tooling marks on the inside. They are not that bad, and I am sure with a little more sanding (at 120 or 150 grit) you would have gotten rid of them. In addition: On wood like that (and a functional bowl like this) there's little point sanding to 1000 grit. I sand my bowls to 240 or 320, and then the finish does the rest.

Got to be honest I hadn't considered that but definitely something I need to think about in the future if this does turn wobbly. Hopefully this was dry enough that I'll get away with it

Hi Mick...really good as an early attempt at bowls. What will you do to treat the timber to ensure that there's no live worm left in it?
Les

Good question, any suggestions  I've had a quick Google and boron is advised. Does anyone have experience of this and know if treatment will stain timber?

Thanks everyone for comments

[Graham]

Bung it in the microwave ?

[Les Symonds]

Hi Mick...really good as an early attempt at bowls. What will you do to treat the timber to ensure that there's no live worm left in it?
Les

Good question, any suggestions  I've had a quick Google and boron is advised. Does anyone have experience of this and know if treatment will stain timber?

I've not tried boron, though I know that Tony and Di use it on wet timber to prevent fungal and insect attack, maybe they could join  the thread. I use a proprietary brand of woodworm treatment if it's for non-food items, but for food items I usually give the finished piece a couple of 'ping's in a microwave oven.
Les

[georg]

 Hi Mick... As Les said when storing wood and roughed out  blanks we use  Borax to coat the wood..... But like all proprietary
 wood worm killer it only works / kills when they are either entering or leaving the wood..... injecting into the hole is not
 100 % proof, as it could be some other worms hole...So cooking the wood is the only sure way we have found... Small
 lumps can be microwaved on DEFROST until very warm big lumps can be steamed .... as with microwaving the times depend
 on the woods volume/ size. Hope This Helps.
 Kind Regards... Tony di

 Ps We use a 45gallon drum connected to a wallpaper stripper and leave in for 2 to 3 hours
 Microwaving ... The wood is always wrapped in cling film to stop burning

 

[seventhdevil]

if that's the board i'm thinking of then i was given it and the worm should be long dead.



tony and di, you have got to start a thread about this.

Ps We use a 45gallon drum connected to a wallpaper stripper and leave in for 2 to 3 hours
 Microwaving ... The wood is always wrapped in cling film to stop burning

[mickdundee]

Thank you for that explanation Tony & Di.

I hope it's dead Steve as it's far too big for my microwave!

[georg]

  Just re- read your thread Mike and seem to have missed the question about does Borax / Boron stain the wood ,
  I have posted a pic ..... The Disk was coated with borax straight after conversion into board then disc, the edge was sealed
  with P V A then thick old concrete paint to stop it cracking... the log was left to the elements... both 1 month go as
  can be seen the Borax has stopped the ingress of moulds..... So to answer the Question in our opinion Borax does not stain.

 

    Regards Tony d