Tools for Starting Woodturning

[Mark Sanger]

ah ask 10 turners and all that  and get 15 answers 

When I teach I introduce students to what I believe are the necessary tools to complete every project in turning other than an under cut hollow form.

For this I recommend

19 mm Spindle roughing gouge

10 mm Bowl gouge

10 mm spindle gouge

19 mm rolled edge skew. Personally I find the oval unstable in use to start out with.

6 mm Parting tool

25 mm round nose scraper

25 mm Square scraper

(or get the 25 mm shear scraper which has the convex and concave option in one which saves money and is a better option as it is a round bar tool so stable during shear scraping.

Now I hear what people say about scrapers, but they have been around as long as turning itself and when starting out turning they can be a good 'go to' option when getting to grips with the bowl gouge and in many cases they are used by the most advance turners for certain situations, watch Steve Jones's videos to see this.

I advocate and explain that with practice they will be able to get a smooth curve and a fine finish in bowl turning with a gouge and to practice to achieve this.

However many starting out will not be able to get the practice that many of us do, frustration can creep due to poor surface finish due to bevel rubbing problems so I always explain the use of scrapers as an option along with the positives and negatives as with all tools.

Indeed I and many others can turn a complete bowl using only a 10 mm bowl gouge with long grind, including finishing and shear scraping cuts. This is not how I would start out teaching as it is not the most suitable option for a beginner. Scrapers are an important part of our arsenal.

Just my thoughts, we all do it a bit differently once we get into the swing of things but foundation knowledge for me should  be a constant. 

[bodrighywood]

I learned to turn in school with nothing but scrapers, not a gouge in site. Roughing out was done with a saw and a plane to get as round as possible.

Pete

[Mark Sanger]

All from Crown hand tools
Worth paying the bit extra and getting Cryogenic

Not sure I'd agree with this George. You need the right wheel to grind these successfully and a beginner is unlikely to have one.

Hi Bryan

Bit confused what you say here about the right wheel. Cryogenic is HSSl heated and dipped into liquid nitrogen the process changing the internal structure making it harder to give longevity in the cutting edge compared to standard HSSM2

It is still HSS and grind in the same way and on the same wheel as standard HSS and HSSM2 I have sharpened mine on a standard 100 grit white wheel ever since I started turning without any issue.

Also I have ground cryo on CBN and Ceramic again no real difference unless the girt is finer.

There may be something in am not aware of hence my asking/bringing this up.

[Bryan Milham]

Mark,

don't know if it's me, but I find I need to use a fine wet wheel to get an edge that lasts, not a Grind wheel even with pink wheels on it.

[GBF]

I use all Crown Cryo tools and sharpen them on a CBN wheel an they are so sharp you could nearly shave with them

Regards George

[Bryan Milham]

Don't doubt it George. CBN wheels are something else when it comes to sharpening.

[Mark Sanger]

I've used Georges cbn, Georges Sorbey belt system and my 100 grit white wheel and not noticed any difference in edge longevity. I do hone my skew on an MDF wheel with compound but again, yes it is ultra sharp but I don't notice any difference in longevity of edge.

Agreed a wet fine wheel will give a finer edge such as the Tormek which I have always used but I don't notice any difference. Perhaps I have not really paid much attention to it. Will speak to Crown and see what they say as like I said earlier, I may be missing something.

[Mark Sanger]

Not wanting to take John's thread off track once I have the info I will post in a separate thread. 

[John D Smith]

 Thank you everyone for your input to the question I asked it is interesting to see other members points of view and advice.

                                                            Regards John

[GBF]

Not wanting to take John's thread off track once I have the info I will post in a separate thread. 

I don't see it as taking the thread off track it is all part of giving the best possible advise to a turner starting out and buying the best quality tools available within budget.
When students come to me if they have already bought tools I suggest they bring them and I will help them with sharpening and profiling.
You would be amazed what I have seen everything from files to the £19  00 set of Ebay inc some that a young lady brought along that I broke in half with my bare hands.

Regards George

[Mark Sanger]

Ok well if John wants this comment removed I will started it in a new one. 

This morning I contacted Crown and asked if a specific wheel is needed to sharpen the Cryogenic steel. The answer was a definite 'NO' in the the grind-ability of the metal is not altered through the process and it can be ground on any wheel from a standard to CBN. The process changes the internal structure in relation to edge retention.

I was told that as with all of the steel variants HSS, HSSM2 Cryo, Pro M, if a finer wheel is used or the edge is honed then they will be sharper and may last longer the same as sharpening any of the variants on say a Tormek or CBN compared to a 100 grit white wheel.

So 'no' is the answer a special wheel is not needed.

[John D Smith]

 Hi Mark,
                 Leave your comments on please they are always of value and full of useful information thank you for taking the time to add to this thread.
                          Regards John

[Bryan Milham]

I've used Georges cbn, Georges Sorbey belt system and my 100 grit white wheel and not noticed any difference in edge longevity. I do hone my skew on an MDF wheel with compound but again, yes it is ultra sharp but I don't notice any difference in longevity of edge.

Agreed a wet fine wheel will give a finer edge such as the Tormek which I have always used but I don't notice any difference. Perhaps I have not really paid much attention to it. Will speak to Crown and see what they say as like I said earlier, I may be missing something.

Mark,

I'd definitely be interested in that answer.

[Mark Sanger]

I've used Georges cbn, Georges Sorbey belt system and my 100 grit white wheel and not noticed any difference in edge longevity. I do hone my skew on an MDF wheel with compound but again, yes it is ultra sharp but I don't notice any difference in longevity of edge.

Agreed a wet fine wheel will give a finer edge such as the Tormek which I have always used but I don't notice any difference. Perhaps I have not really paid much attention to it. Will speak to Crown and see what they say as like I said earlier, I may be missing something.

Mark,

I'd definitely be interested in that answer.

Hi Bryan

Already answered it above John's last post.

The answer is 'No' Cryo does not need a special wheel.

[Eric Harvey]

I`ve found over the years if you can`t afford a decent sharpening system a cheap grinder to get the initial sharpness then glue a pice of 600 grit and a piece of 1200 grit wet and dry paper to a flat board etc,gives a wonderful edge and always handy when you do have a decent set up to touch up an edge while turning,cheers,

Eric.