Turning end grain plate...

[arcos]

Hi all

It's been a while since visiting you guys... Since stepping in front of the lathe also... Few 'problems' but hey, life goes one eh!

I have been asked to turn some plates by a friend, never turned a plate before!

He has some olive wood that has been sliced into 2 - 3 inch slices and would like some plates made...

My plan...

Screw on a faceplate, turn the base with foot, finish base, mount foot into chuck and work face...

Now, do I need to be concerned about the end grain?

I have mostly avoided end grain turning and had varied success when doing end grain...

Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance

[fuzzyturns]

I would say that plates turned from end grain wood are tricky at best. I haven't worked with olive before, so maybe it has the strength to hold, but the problem you have is that your fibres are going to be very short, and generally adhesion between fibres is a lot less strong than the fibres themselves. In consequence, thin pieces from end grain have a tendency to break apart if undue stress is put onto them.
You can reduce the risk by
a) keeping the plates on the thick(ish) side, I'd say around 1/2" or more.
b) working your way in from the outside: turn about 1-2" of platter diameter to final dimensions and rough sand down to about 120grit, then do the next 1-2" until you arrive at the centre. Then finish the sanding, carefully, with all the other grits.

You will find that these plates will break easily, be warned.

[arcos]

Thanks for the reply....

Exactly what I was thinking, tricky and weak :-(

Olive is lovely wood to turn and not too fibrous so I'm hoping that they will stay together better than a fibrous wood!

I think I will have a try with some small pieces I have before attempting some of the 'customer's' wood lol
 

[Les Symonds]

Hi arcos, good to hear from you again....it must be a few years since you last stepped into the forum.

I wholeheartedly agree with what fuzzy has said, and would add 2 things.

• because the end grain is comparatively weak, sharp tool are ever-more important
• overheating whilst sanding must be avoided....even the slightest hairline crack caused by overheating will open up into a crack on thin end grain

best of luck with the plates....Les

[bodrighywood]

I would be more inclined initially to hot glue the blank onto a wooden face plate and then turn your foot. be careful when using a foot as well mind, as said the fibres are going to be short and it is easy to tighten too much, crush them and destroy the integrity of the foot, usually realised when the wood flies over your shoulder. I have done a number of bowls and plates end grain and usually do as much as possible with the tail stock up and then finish taking the centre out towards the end.

pete

[arcos]

Hi arcos, good to hear from you again....it must be a few years since you last stepped into the forum.

I wholeheartedly agree with what fuzzy has said, and would add 2 things.

• because the end grain is comparatively weak, sharp tool are ever-more important
• overheating whilst sanding must be avoided....even the slightest hairline crack caused by overheating will open up into a crack on thin end grain

best of luck with the plates....Les

Hi Les and yes, it's been a little while... Sometimes 'life' get's in the way of pleasure!

Thanks for the advice... I will certainly be taking my time on this project....

And Pete, thanks also...

My plan is to screw mount the wood onto a faceplate and turn the bottom and a sturdy foot keeping the tailstock in place until that last minute!

Well, I pick up the wood later today so will let you know how it goes!

[bodrighywood]

I am not sure how well screws into end grain will hold? Always a chance of splitting the wood as well.

pete

[Bryan Milham]

Arcos, welcome back.

I've not seen plates tuned as end-grain, but I have seen them turned as you describe, on a screw then reversed onto a set of specially made large diameter wooden jaws on a chuck, half to 2/3rds diameter of the plate. Such a large diameter is needed for the stability of the plate.

The base tenon is turned very precisely to fit the jaws.