Finials and boxes

[fuzzyturns]

As promised, here are a few more pictures of recent work. Half a year ago I probably would have run a mile if somebody had asked me to turn a finial. But then I thought: Wolfie, if you want to be a wood turner, you've got to be good at all of it, not just some. And so I gave it a shot. Here are some results.

Once you get the hang of it, it's actually quite fun. The only problem I have is that my lathe (which is an engineering lathe) runs at 2000rpm max, which is a bit on the slow side for the very fine finials.

Most of these are made from cherry, which I have plenty of, and it works well. It's hard enough to hold the shape, and soft enough to cut nicely, and I can get a very nice surface right off the tool. The latter is essential, since on the really fine detail sanding is a total no-no-no.

The big piece is called Rocky Mountain Nod, as it was inspired by the shapes and finials I saw on Cindy Drozda's website. Obviously I am not as good as she is, but I rather like the piece. Any comments and critiques highly welcome.

[woodndesign]

As promised, here are a few more pictures of recent work. Half a year ago I probably would have run a mile if somebody had asked me to turn a finial. But then I thought: Wolfie, if you want to be a wood turner, you've got to be good at all of it, not just some. And so I gave it a shot. Here are some results.

Once you get the hang of it, it's actually quite fun. The only problem I have is that my lathe (which is an engineering lathe) runs at 2000rpm max, which is a bit on the slow side for the very fine finials.

Most of these are made from cherry, which I have plenty of, and it works well. It's hard enough to hold the shape, and soft enough to cut nicely, and I can get a very nice surface right off the tool. The latter is essential, since on the really fine detail sanding is a total no-no-no.

The big piece is called Rocky Mountain Nod, as it was inspired by the shapes and finials I saw on Cindy Drozda's website. Obviously I am not as good as she is, but I rather like the piece. Any comments and critiques highly welcome.

Very true statement... I'm shocked at those who say you've not mastered the skew,  from the looks you've managed a very descent job here, and credit given to Cindy too.

Cheers for sharing.  David
 

[Bryan Milham]

I don't like the last one I'm afraid, the teardrop is poorly shaped. I do like the one before that, a very unusual shape but it works well and is balanced.

If I could make one suggestion, the cut between the teardrop and the capstan needs to be deeper, to define the two parts.

[fuzzyturns]

At last, some feedback! Thank you.
I am not afraid of criticism, it's the main reason why I show my pieces here. I also believe it's the only way to get better.

So in response: dr4g0nfly, when you say the teardrop is poorly shaped, what should I have done different? Is it that the stem between the onion and the final teardrop isn't fine/thin enough?

woodndesign: I never said anything about anybody telling me I hadn't mastered the skew. In fact, the finials were mostly done with a combination of two spindle gouges (a cheap axminster and a very nice Crown Cryo 1/4") and a 1/2" round skew chisel. Saying that, I didn't show you all the pieces that went into the firewood bin. 

[Bryan Milham]

Fuzzy (Sorry, not sure I know your name),

The last finial's teardrop is wrong as it could not form naturally.

Okay, let's try explain that. The flowing curve around the base of a teardrop (actually raindrop), and the stretched out tail should have a smooth flow. In nature a drop of water wants to be a sphere, gravity, friction in the air caused by its motion causes the elongated shape but it's still trying to pull itself into a sphere. To fill the smallest possible volume of space.

So the line of the curve above the onion, into the tail goes through too fast a change of curve, you could do that but it would take a defining cut to make the sweep between them look right. Look at the first three drips, the curves are smooth, they flow around the onion and up the tail.

There is a bad curve at the top of the tallest white finial, the outward sweep of the curve into the top part, goes through too sharp a turn and then almost a flat line to the rim, but as it's so small against the rest of the finial and as it would be part of a much larger form, it would not normally be noticeable.

Next post I'll show some of mine - with critique.

[woodndesign]

As promised, here are a few more pictures of recent work. Half a year ago I probably would have run a mile if somebody had asked me to turn a finial. But then I thought: Wolfie, if you want to be a wood turner, you've got to be good at all of it, not just some. And so I gave it a shot. Here are some results.

Once you get the hang of it, it's actually quite fun. The only problem I have is that my lathe (which is an engineering lathe) runs at 2000rpm max, which is a bit on the slow side for the very fine finials.

Most of these are made from cherry, which I have plenty of, and it works well. It's hard enough to hold the shape, and soft enough to cut nicely, and I can get a very nice surface right off the tool. The latter is essential, since on the really fine detail sanding is a total no-no-no.

The big piece is called Rocky Mountain Nod, as it was inspired by the shapes and finials I saw on Cindy Drozda's website. Obviously I am not as good as she is, but I rather like the piece. Any comments and critiques highly welcome.

Very true statement... I'm shocked at those who say you've not mastered the skew,  from the looks you've managed a very descent job here, and credit given to Cindy too.

Cheers for sharing.  David
 

Wolfgang, sorry I note now it's a typo ..   .. should have read .. you've they've not mastered the skew.  

A good Turner should, would, could carry out any discipline in the craft.

Cheers   David

[Bryan Milham]

Some of my finials,

the first is in two parts, with a jewellry bead between, the top section becomes too straight due to it's length, it loses any curve, and the underflair to the top also flattens (like your tall white one)

The second does not taper in enough as the tail rises, it stays a little too fat.

The third, the teardrop is right, but the top diameter of the capstan is a little wide but I did leave it like that as it fitted with the sweeping curve of the rest of the form (not show here).

The fourth, it all comes together here, the teardrop curves flow, the capstan is tall and the curves flow and the neck between is narrow and defined.

[fuzzyturns]

dr4g0nfly, you have no idea how much I appreciate you taking the time to do this detailed critique. It's a treasure.

I agree with most of your points, and these are my first finials, so I think for initial practice pieces they are OK. I might keep some of them around in the workshop to remind me of the things that I got wrong.
As far as your critique of your own pieces goes, I think you are right. Having said that, the good thing is that in most of these finials you have erred on the thick side. In other words, most of the (small) deficiencies could be corrected by taking a little more off in the right places. On the first one it's a question of getting the taper towards the thinnest part flowing, and there's still material for that. The same is true for the second one. The third one probably doesn't need anything, if (as you say) it flows with the rest of the piece (although I am not a fan of having a sphere sitting at the end of a finial). The last one flows very nicely indeed, and my only critique would be that the grooves towards the top of it seem a little crude when compared to the rest of the shape.

[edbanger]

This is better someone showing their work and someone giving detailed response.

Fuzzy I like your finials but they just didn't look as good as some of the one's that really work, but I did not understand what made a good finial, but with Bryan's comments and pictures wen can all see what makes a good clean finial so thank you Bryan.

I've not really done anything that I've added a finial to but have try turning them with my skew as skew practice which have come out ok'ish the finish was good but I've never been happy with the shape.

After reading this post I will at some point have another go with renewed enthusiasm 

Ed   

[Bryan Milham]

Fuzzy,

I understand what you say about the sphere or other embelishment on top of the teardrop, but it needs something other than just a tapered point at the top. The ball/sphere is there to add a safety measure against someone putting their hand on it and hurting themself.


Ed,

they look much harder than they are.

Use a close grained timber, Beech is good to practice on, once mastered better timbers for the finished article. Open grained like Oak and Ash are not so good for learning to turn small stuff like these.

I use a skew (by preference) but they are as easy to do with a well sharpened 10mm Spindle Gouge, but it does need to be sharped as a detail gouge, with a long grind to get between the teardrop and the capstan. Or the toe of the skew does need to be used for this bit.

The other thing to remember is they are made with small pieces of wood, so it it does go wrong, it's not a big deal cost-wise, so have a go, push your luck and you'll be suprised just how thin you can take a piece of wood and still have it hold together.

[bodrighywood]

Finials are a great example of something that seems simple being difficult to get right. As Brian eloquently says. they have have to look as if they were formed naturally. Small pieces also don't take much to look wrong, not always seen when horizontal. The ones in this thread are all technically good turnings but not all immediately look right and I couldn't have explained why as well as you have  Brian. Thanks

pete