This sounds ridicules but.....

[SalineMan]

Mounted a big block (300 x 300) of part dried beech on my face plate and went about making it round, and truing the back face for my spigot etc. As I finished making it round, I not iced the tool was jumping in my hand. When I slowly revolved the blank, sure enough there are 2 high spots. I got my 7/8 roughing gouge and tried to remove them. No joy.

I'm not sure I'm explaining this very well. I used my 10mm bowl gouge with swept back grind both to true up the back face and the make round.

Can anyone make sense of this?

Cheers

[Les Symonds]

I think that I know what this is.,....are you putting too much pressure on the bowl gouge? You obviously need quite firm pressure against the tool rest with an out-of-true lump like this, but you should only need very light pressure against the wood. If the pressure is too great, the gouge keeps kicking back of every revolution, and any high spots are self-regenerating.
Try a very light, fine pass with the gouge.

Les

[SalineMan]

Les, thank you for that!! Thought I was going mad! I'll give it a try later and let you know.

[julcle]

Yes  --  I found this out a good while ago now. You cut into the softer bits and bounce over the hard bits where as you need to skim over the soft bits and shave off the hard bits. This does take the edge off the tool quite quickly so keep an eye on it and you should be fine.  --  Julian

[burywoodturners]

If I understand the original post right, SalineMan, you are using both a seven eighths roughing gouge and a ten mill bowl gouge on a bowl. For you own safety please do not use a roughing down gouge on a bowl. If you get a catch you may well injure yourself. The stem on roughing out gouge is weaker than a bowl gouge and can break, and the wider sweep of the roughing out gouge is trying to take too much wood from the blank and inviting a scary dig in.

Ron

[Graham]

300 x 300 lump - could be either I suppose. Worth making the point though.

[SalineMan]

If I understand the original post right, SalineMan, you are using both a seven eighths roughing gouge and a ten mill bowl gouge on a bowl. For you own safety please do not use a roughing down gouge on a bowl. If you get a catch you may well injure yourself. The stem on roughing out gouge is weaker than a bowl gouge and can break, and the wider sweep of the roughing out gouge is trying to take too much wood from the blank and inviting a scary dig in.

Ron

Ron, I used the roughing gouge on the outside in an attempt to make round, as one would on a spindle.

[seventhdevil]

roughing gouges are only used on spindles mate...


bowl gouges are called so because they are used on bowls...


use a good sturdy bowl gouge to rough down the outside of bowls.

[SalineMan]

roughing gouges are only used on spindles mate...


bowl gouges are called so because they are used on bowls...


use a good sturdy bowl gouge to rough down the outside of bowls.

Now that's interesting, during a recent turning class we were advised to use a roughing gouge to make round an uneven blank that was fresh cut from a log, and to use a bowl gouge on a "bought " blank. Ya live and learn!!

[bodrighywood]

Have a look at your roughing gouge and how it is attached to its handle compared to a bowl or spindle gouge. It has just a tang that can bend and snap if it catches and as said it is wide so easy to do. Personally if I am roughing out a really gnarly log in spindle mode as I do for some of my wabi sabi pieces I use a bowl gouge for safety.

Pete

[SalineMan]

That's what I love about this forum, the collected knowledge of so many turners. Thanks all.

[seventhdevil]

i must confess to breaking the rule on only using the roughing gouge on spindle work but most of the time i do use my bowl gouges. i only use it if its fairly regular or quite small, the larger stuff i'll use the bowl gouge...

you are a fairly new turner so still have techniques to refine so this may be the problem when you use the roughing gouge for turning such a large item but that's called learning...


with time to come you will gain the expertise to use whatever tool you want to on any item you wish...

[John D Smith]

[with time to come you will gain the expertise to use whatever tool you want to on any item you wish...
[/quote]

 Hi seventhdvil, I am sorry I do not agree with the the last line of your posting you never ever use a Roughing Gouge on the inside of a Bowl

                                                               Regards John

[john taylor]

A spindle roughing gouge used on a bowl blank, this wasn't mine but a professional who had been turning for about 20 years.

john

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Sine man I echo what everyone else is saying in as much as you should never use a roughing gouge on faceplate work, despite what seventhdevil may say. What is more disconcerting however is the fact that you were told to use it during a woodturning class. Can I assume that the tutor was not a professional turner? If he was please would you be good enough to PM me his details so that I may contact him in my official capacity as Health and safety rep.
Somewhere on you tube there is a film of someone showing why this tool should not be used for that purpose....he has an accident similar to the one you are very lucky to have avoided so far. In Richard Raffan's excellent video about tooling catches he will only describe it because demonstrating it is too dangerous.

You may wish to review the methods already taught you so feel free to either PM me about it or give me your details and I will put you in touch with someone that can teach you properly.
Regards
John Aitken RPT
AWGB H&S rep
Qualified adult Educator.