Beginning to see the light

[Haggy]

This turning was inspired by the 'dragon platter' and  will appear deadly boring to people, but it has come about after taking the advice in particular of George, Brian and Nick on turning techniques.  The platter was made from a piece of engineered oak that was given to me.
All the tools bar the parting were reground so I could 'push the bevel' around the simple curves of the platter. The small gouge was ground to 65* to finish the base, I included a secondary bevel to get around the tighter curves  The amazing thing was I was able to achieve a quality 'planed' finish with no tear out that needed no abrasives, this was a first for me! 
That said, when I highlighted the groove with brown acrylic, some paint did flow over the edge and I used some abrasive paper to remove the paint- so I guess I can't claim 100% success (should have used my NRS)
I am starting to understand the importance of getting the bevel to glide everywhere and the need to change the grinding angle accordingly, I am beginning to see the light.  So a big thank you to those who kindly pass on their knowledge every week, it has helped in so many ways.
         Regards.  Haggy

[Les Symonds]

...will appear deadly boring to people....

Certainly not, Haggy, not boring at all, though I agree with you 100% about the buzz of getting the finish off the tool.

Les

[Graham]

Nothing boring about it. Just the thought of turning anything that didn't need sanding at all is setting a target that seems an awfully long way away. 

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Haggy first off well done, a nice platter. Also for listening and interpreting given advice. I would like to say though that you still need to abrade, look carefully just inside the rim and there are tooling marks that would be better removed. All work, no matter how fine the finish off the tool, should be abraded , just that now you are starting to save a fortune on abrasive papers. 

[Bryan Milham]

Haggy,

Firstly well done on achieving such an excellent finish from your tools. As John notes there will always be a little abrading (sanding) needed, what you are really aiming for is to start fairly high up the grit size rather than the lower end.

A light scrape over the rim after the application of colour may well have removed the overspill into the grain, leaving a cleaner finish at that point.

As for using manufactured board, nothing wrong there. I've some in the garage that's been given to me, and the person who gave it to me has asked me to turn much as you have as his 'thank you' for the boards, and it will blend with his kitchen worktops excellently. Also go down the supermarkets, many of the wooden salad and fruit bowls they sell are made of manufactured blanks, and you don't see Mr Tesco's/Sainsbury's etc., apologising for them!

[Haggy]

Damn it you're right BHT!  I didn't notice that tear out until I zoomed in and then checked my platter.  I thought I could get away with no abrading. I will make another and try scraping the paint off the groove
like you suggest Brian, when you zoom in it does look a mess.
One question for anyone who may read this - how do you get rid of undulations when you push cut? The bevel often seems to ride over these and make things worse!  Do you simply have to take a deeper cut under these or scrape them off and start again with a push cut?  It is probably just practice I guess.
Thank you Gywntog and Graham for your encouragement.  I appreciate the dragon platter (Gwyntog) even more now- to blend the carving into the back ground takes some doing.
Thanks for the feedback
   Haggy

[edbanger]

Haggy a great looking piece

If the undulations occur the inside of the bowl or platter I had this and it was due to to hard a bevel rub, the way I got rid of them was to very lightly gliding the gouge over the surface just taking a little away at a time until the undulations are removed. The harder the bevel is rub the worse they get.

Hope that helps

Ed

[Bryan Milham]

As Ed says, a 'bounce' (ripple) can be created by a hard bevel rub, sometimes a knot will start it and once started it will self perpetuate and grow, likewise a change in density of the timber and you have a manufactured board.

Removing it, again as Ed says, a gentler cut, but also change the angle of the flute to a more upright angle, you want to slice through the ripples in shorter and slower cuts, changing the resonant frequency that the ripple creates, also a little more down pressure on the tool over the toolrest (not a silly effort though).

[BrianH]

To minimize the tool's insistance on hipperty hopping a texture onto your work concentrate on getting the bevel gliding nicely over the surface and then put your natural tendancy to pressure the tool towards the toolrest NOT the timber.
All the best
Brian H

[edbanger]

Hi Haggy

I have just thought of a tip I was given, when turning, hold the handle of the gouge with your little finger sticking out

Give it a try 

Ed

[Bryan Milham]

I have just thought of a tip I was given, when turning, hold the handle of the gouge with your little finger sticking out

Not heard this one - well only for a cup of tea - might try it next time I get a little ripple.

[Graham]

It will separate the high class turners from the working class turners 

[Haggy]

Just got back from holiday- thanks for the advice,- I have just mounted some wood on the lathe to try out your suggestions on another platter.  Will try your tip out Ed, if it doesn't work I'll try sticking out two fingers
I've also reground one of my gouges to a 40:40 grind as I understand this aids push cutting/ entry cuts.  May have to alter the tip angle though. My aim is to get away with using no abrasives purely to show off!!!
      Regards. Haggy
           

[edbanger]

Good Luck Haggy, I think if you hold the gouge with TWO fingers sticking out I can't see how you will hold the gouge 

[bodrighywood]

Sometimes when you get the ripples the easiest way to get rid of them is shear scraping. Never understand why so many turners are adverse to scraping. I  learned to turn originally with nothing but scrapers. Still use the bowl gouge but tilt so that it is just off the vertical and gently scrape towards you from the centre to the outside of the bowl. You can do the same on the outside as well if necessary. It is simply another way to cut the wood away,

Pete