Help needed re buffing

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Hi Les,
          looking at your set up from a safety point of view the minimum you should do is turn the jubilee clip the other way round so that the "tail" is trailing, so that way if you do have an accident it will be less serious.
    I cannot comment further but you will know if it is set up as safely as you can.
Regards
John BHT

[bodrighywood]

I use the Chestnut system but the arbour fits straight into the chuck. Not sure why you have used your method Les? Any good reason?

Pete

[julcle]

Hi Les,  Thanks for the picture it speaks a thousand words ! My little mops fit into a Jacobs Chuck, the problem here is that the Jacobs Chuck is fitted to a 2MT Centre that fits the head stock and when the lathe is running has a tendency to come loose and remove itself from the spindle. The large buffing wheels have the tail stock brought up to the shaft and hold them in place.

[bodrighywood]

If I have to use a jacobs chuck in my headstock I hold it i  the chuck. On mibne there is a morse taper but the last inch before the actual chuck is flat so can be held this way. Alternatively Bring your tool rest up so that if the jacobs chuck moves it won't fly out and hurt you .

Pete

[Les Symonds]

Hi Pete...the reason for having the wooden extension to the chuck is two-fold. Firstly, and most importantly, my Patriot chuck is an old one and is probably slightly worn. The jaws tend to splay out a little when tightened up - if you look closely at the photo you'll see that the gap between the jaws is not parallel, but slightly tapered. It's fine on wood, because the serrations on the jaws and the 'dovetail' ends dig into the wood and hold it securely, but on hard metals they don't grip sufficiently, allowing the arbor to wobble very slightly. Secondly, it extends the mop and extra few inches away from the chuck, which makes the polishing of the inside of deep bowls quite a bit easier.

Les

[woodndesign]

I can see the reasoning for buffing, yet like TWiG, so far I've hand rubbed finishes on bowl and spindle work... most have been oil.

When I see the advantages with the work posted, I've considered buying a set/system, untill the past 2 days at Axminster Nuneaton Store, with watching Colwin I noticed with interest He used just 2 wheels, 1 compound and wax only .. not 3 as seen usually.. Asking Him, he was puzzles .. 2 is all it took, why the need, when I mentioned diamond white (if that's the compound !!) as used in between, before the wax.. it would appear to be a step (and time saver) which is not necessary to achieve the desired finish.. if so I see the cost come down with just 2 wheels, an a 1st cut compound, as I've a stick of carnauba wax, may well be bees wax mix.  Then is this just the view of one man and unfounded, even for Colwin's years in the Trade/Craft.

We find so many advancements happening, the latest or newest ways and means.. is 3 wheels just a money making gimmick or is it necessary .. after all we've all got boxes full of as many unused, as used tools which were, again a must have if we're a Turner to work, it only takes a few and at best a time saver from hunting for and using many, which is an advantage to efficiency. 

Food for thought..

Cheers  David