Lathe Height

[Paul Disdle]

I guess this is going to be a personal preference thing, but i there any rough suggestion to lathe height and body. Like lathe bed parallel to hips or something

Thanks

Paul

[Bryan Milham]

Headstock centerline level with your elbow, plus or minus a bit.

[Les Symonds]

Headstock centerline level with your elbow, plus or minus a bit.

Is that before or after you build a 300mm thick layer of shavings under your feet?

[Bryan Milham]

Is that before or after you build a 300mm thick layer of shavings under your feet?

You been peeking in my workshop?

[bodrighywood]

Before the shavings LOL. My lathes have approx  150mm difference in height so I have a platform to stand on for one as the work bench is built for flat work. I also have another platform for when I am teaching as being 6'4" most students tend to be a bit shorter.

Pete

[Martin Lawrence]

  If I were setting up my sorkshop again, I would set my lathe sentre height 6" above elbow height. For normal every day turning I would then stand on a 6" high raised platform, and when turning hollow forms remove the platform and no stooping to see inside.

Cheers Martin

[Roderick Evans]

Hi Martin,
What a brilliant idea !! I'm redesigning my workshop and investing in a new lathe. I had intended to set the stand 6" below floor level to get my elbow parallel with the  drive centre ( being I'm a liitle on the short side ) .However ,your idea makes much more sense. I'm getting more in to hollowing at the moment and being as I suffer with back problems this seems to be the perfect answer. Why didn't I think of it?
Regards,
Rod

[Paul Hannaby]

Surely if you have the centre height 6" higher then your toolrest will be too. That will mean you will be holding the tool under your armpit and I bet it wouldn't be long before aches and pains in the wrists and shoulders set in due to the unnatural position.
I remember reading something in a David Ellsworth book where he suggests setting the lathe centre height well below elbow height for hollowing so you could stand up straight and have your arms in a more natural position while hollowing.
There probably is no single best height, it will depend on the individual and how you prefer to work so I guess it would pay to try different heights and see which is most comfortable.

[ravenge]

It's generally suggested that the spindle should be at elbow height, but I would regard that as a starting point, I have my lathe with the spindle higher than my elbow (maybe 3-4 inch higher) I have a bad back problem and find the higher spindle stops me from hunching over as much and is much kinder to my back, I think it's a personal thing, some like it high some like it low, trouble is with the weight of some lathes it helps to get the hight right while assembling the lathe (unless your a power lifter that is!!! ;-)

[afrancis]

The tailstock MUST be exactly at elbow height so that if you forget to take out the live centre it catches you right on the funny bone.

[Bryan Milham]

The tailstock MUST be exactly at elbow height so that if you forget to take out the live centre it catches you right on the funny bone.

Well that's confirmed mine is set right then!

[thebowlerhattedturner]

When you think about it this is a very complex problem. Obviously you have to consider your stance as ravenge has said about his bad back. With Paul H and his height a low lathe would really cause problems. I quite like tucking a chisel under my arm for hollowing but could do with the lathe higher for general work.Depending on your lathe height and your height your chisel grinds may vary too.Also, in the winter I tend to keep more shavings on the floor than I should(I know,I know, I'm the H&S guy and should know better but this is a fact of life that I keep more shavings on the floor to keep my feet warm)and the extra layer of shavings will affect your lathe height too. There can't be many turners who stand upright to turn, I am a leaner, I always have to lean against the machine as that is how I am comfortable.
       I'm glad I'm not the only one to rattle my funny bone on the tailstock and it certainly isn't funny!
Paul D the best advice I can give you is work comfortably, try not to stoop and turn with your knees slightly flexed, do not stay in one position on the lathe all day long as that is not good for you,if I have a long monotonous job I move my sharpening system so that I walk about in the workshop to ease the joints a bit.
Hope this helps
Regards
John BHT

[Paul Disdle]

Thank you all for your responses. I  am 6 foot with a bad back already. My lathe is set a higher than spindle/elbow config as this felt comfortable for my back. The original question was born out of watching other turners who for some cuts hold the tool almost locked into their sides for control and stability. This may sound silly but would it be worth me extending the handles of my tools to enable me to do this?

Paul

[thebowlerhattedturner]

The short answer is yes, you will find that you have more tool control for less effort with a longer handle, I can't explain it but even though you hold the handle halfway up the balance of a long handle just........feels right.
Regards
John BHT

[Bryan Milham]

Do I remember right, up to about 10 years ago some manufacturers sold tools, unhandled and also handled with a choice of normal and long pattern handle?