First attempts

[Devchef1]

Well these have made it past the Wood burner , Have never turned before until two weeks ago, no lessons or tuition just playing around.

Still not finished and have no idea what wood it is ( if somebody knows please let me know ) still lots of sanding to do.

All comments welcome good and bad

Have fun ( cause i am )

Mike

[Terry Miller]

Good effort!!

Regards

Terry

[woody]

That is a very good effort for a beginner  you still have a way to go but you are on the right track quite brave of you to attempt a burr and with a natural edge

[Devchef1]

That is a very good effort for a beginner  you still have a way to go but you are on the right track quite brave of you to attempt a burr and with a natural edge

Woody,

Thank you for your comment much appreciated , what would you have done differently to go onto the right tack ? As when I say I am a complete novice / beginner / armature this could not be truer. So any hints tips or pointers are appreciated, constructive critic in my mind is a great tool.

"quite brave of you to attempt a burr and with a natural edge " I plead ignorance s I didn't know it was a brave move lol just found it in a waste bin at the wood yard and thought it would be a laugh to have a go and if it fired the wood burner then so be it

[Bryan Milham]

You've only been turning for 2 weeks. Eh... can you stop now, another 2 weeks and you'll be making some of us look bad .

I can't identify the Burr I'm afraid, I've only turned a couple and I don't think they were the same as your's, but oh boy is it a lovely piece of wood.

Suggestions;

Work on your sanding, what grits do you have and certainly for the finer grits you do want something of quality. You need to be looking down to at least 230 grit, or lower if you can. The sanding marks you still have can still be taken out by hand sanding or a orbital sander if you have one.

we explained to Paul how to sand to a good finish a few post ago - take a look here - http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.php/topic,1105.0.html

For a finish, as it looks like you've removed the way you mounted it, so you're looking at an off the lathe finish. Again after just 2 weeks you probably don't have many finishes. It also depends upon what you want to do with it. Just display it, any finish, put fruit in it I'd suggest an oil (just in case anything goes bad - to protect against fruit acid).

So ones you may have around or easily obtainable are paste wax (furniture polish) or an oil. Kitchen oils can be used but... Nut oils can cause problems with some people. Some can go rancid, and unlike dedicated wood oils they don't have driers in them so they take a long while to set. If you go to one of the big DIY sheds look for Colron or Liberon they make both paste waxes and various oils.

[Devchef1]

You've only been turning for 2 weeks. Eh... can you stop now, another 2 weeks and you'll be making some of us look bad .

I can't identify the Burr I'm afraid, I've only turned a couple and I don't think they were the same as your's, but oh boy is it a lovely piece of wood.

Suggestions;

Work on your sanding, what grits do you have and certainly for the finer grits you do want something of quality. You need to be looking down to at least 230 grit, or lower if you can. The sanding marks you still have can still be taken out by hand sanding or a orbital sander if you have one.

we explained to Paul how to sand to a good finish a few post ago - take a look here - http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.php/topic,1105.0.html

For a finish, as it looks like you've removed the way you mounted it, so you're looking at an off the lathe finish. Again after just 2 weeks you probably don't have many finishes. It also depends upon what you want to do with it. Just display it, any finish, put fruit in it I'd suggest an oil (just in case anything goes bad - to protect against fruit acid).

So ones you may have around or easily obtainable are paste wax (furniture polish) or an oil. Kitchen oils can be used but... Nut oils can cause problems with some people. Some can go rancid, and unlike dedicated wood oils they don't have driers in them so they take a long while to set. If you go to one of the big DIY sheds look for Colron or Liberon they make both paste waxes and various oils.

Hi

Thanks for comment i plan to take it to 600 grit, I have only got to 240 at the moment so still a fair way to go, the way I mounted it in the lathe was with a scroll chuck in the base ( which is still there ) as i still need to sand sand and then sand again , you mention " for the finer grits you do want something of quality" what do you use or suggest as I thought sand paper was sandpaper !!!!!

It will be either a display piece or for Non food items not big enough for fruit ( a few grapes but that would be about it ) its only 4" wide and 3" at its deepest 

Finnish wise i have Chestnut "friction polish" Chestnut "Acrylic lacquer" chestnut "acrylic sanding sealer"  Liberon "Fine paste wax Medium oak" and a couple of sticks of bees wax , and shed loads of olive oil in the kitchen , can also get Lemon oil and Orange oil from work

Mike

[Bryan Milham]

Only 3" X 4", it really looks quite bigger than that. At that size a display piece is perfect so a good high polish is in order.

Sandpaper, here's the turners dilemma. The way we use it, at high speed and probably much hotter than other users means most sandpapers (really called abrasive papers) are not able to stand up to our use. And worse still, we are such a small part of any market there is no requirement for a manufacturer to make something to suit our needs. So we've had to discover the best ones for turning of the multitudes available.

There will be some addition or disagreement on these but generally they are some of the best. What you can't source locally I'm sure the AWGB Corporate members can provide at a discount (http://www.awgb.co.uk/corporate.php);

J weight Cloth Backed - various makers;
Abronet (made by Mirka);
Rhino (Company Name) Abrasives (also available velcro backed).

As for the cutting particles, they can be (in old days) crushed Glass (Sandpaper), Emory (Wet & Dry), Garnet, Aluminium oxides, Silicon Oxides and more. We woodworkers tend to stick to the various oxide versions.

So you are able to remount an sand down to 600. Stop every grit and handsand where necessary getting it right before moving to the next lower grit. Then work through the dampening and cutting back the grain as in the link I put up earlier.

Definitely use the sanding sealer once your happy with the sanding, buff that back with some shavings as it will start the shine and then from what you have I'd use the friction polish. Just don't get any of it on the natural edge as you'll not be able to buff that up!

[woodndesign]

Mike,  that's a nice piece, you've turned it well, it's difficult to make consistent cuts with natural edge forms and with sanding off the lathe, get to keep your fingers.

Form will come with time and practice.

Cheers David