Insulation/panelling a shed

[Mike313]

This is a long post, sorry, but I just want to explain what I’m thinking of doing before I ask my questions.

I have a 12’ x 9’ shed with is constructed of shiplap boarding on a 3”x2” frame and I hope to put in a source of heat (an oil-filled rad or an electric greenhouse heater) set to come on at, say, 5 degrees C, just enough to help ward off condensation problems on the nights when the temperature falls.

To go along with this, I was thinking of insulating and panelling the inside with the hope of achieving a few goals, as follows:

• Do it on a budget
  

• Thermal insulation. Keep the heat in when the heater comes on, on cold nights so that tools/surfaces don’t get so cold that condensation forms leading to rust on tools (especially the bits you can’t just oil like motors etc) or mould on walls etc.
  

• Reduce/eliminate drafts for the same reason; the shed has 2 vent panels as well as windows but on cold nights I would ensure the vents are closed. The windows have shutters so I would insulated those too.
  

• Acoustic insulation. I’d like to dampen the noise emitted to the outside when I am running noisy machines such as my chip extractor, planer/thicknesser (a future purchase) and other power tools.
  

And so, my questions. Has anyone else done this, particularly where the insulation was for thermal and acoustic purposes?

I’ve noticed that Wickes have this product  - 
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-30mm-Acoustic-Insulation-Slab-3-6m2-Pack-5/p/161189?reccs=recentlyviewed 
which seems to have thermal and acoustic insulation qualities. Would that be suitable?

For cladding, what would be a good solution? OSB seems to be cheaper than plywood . . .

I know that to soundproof the shed would cost thousands which I don’t want to spend. But if there was a way to get a decent results for a few hundred pounds . . . . .

Thanks for reading. All advice gratefully received.

[julcle]

Hi Mike,  I did something similar a number of years ago. I used 4x2" with Shiplap and rockwool as the insulator in the walls and the loft space; I used 9mm Plywood to clad the inside and also had a waterproof breathable membrane between the 4x2 and the shiplap. It's been good now for nearly 20 years. The only problem is that because of the insulation it's usually warmer outside than it is inside even in the Winter.  --  Julian

[Twisted Trees]

It may be worth buying some baton to make your insulation space 4" instead of 3" as most default (therefore cheaper) insulation is 4".

In theory you should remove the shiplap, put a vapor barrier over the frame the re-clad it before putting insulation in, there is a risk of damp and rot if you don't. or you could just take the risk as a future problem can be dealt with in the future.

Skimp on the quality of the lining not on the thickness 18mm OSB mean you can hang a bracket anywhere the joists no longer matter.

Any form of insulation will help with suppressing noise as well resolving heat loss / gain, but that Wicks insulation is only 30mm thick, don't think I am sold on that doing much in your application.

Check on Freecycle or what ever you have in your area for free double glassed windows (or look for some house that is having them replaced, and ask) it is a timber structure dead easy to make the hole fit the window! 

If you are not going to do the vapor barrier, consider using something that wont hold moisture for the bottom 6", polystyrene may be more expensive but if you are only doing a bit with it it wont be a lot, then add some vents low level and small if your shiplap is fairly airtight.

Once you have your lining in, tape up all the joints and paint it white to maximize light... it makes a hell of a difference!

[Tim Pettigrew]

Hi Mike

I have done a very similar project which I have written up on my website which you can access with THIS link.

If you think I can be of further help in any way then don't hesitate to send me a PM.

Tim

[Mike313]

Julcle, Twisted Trees and Tim Pettigrew,
Thank you for the advice and links/photos. Much appreciated and very helpful

[JohnHewes]

Don’t forget to do the floor!
I have 1” polyurethane with 25mm plywood over it, a huge improvement over the old cement.
You can also screw things to it easily for temporary fixings, or permanent.
Stops the cold coming up and keeps the feet warm.

[Twisted Trees]

Don’t forget to do the floor!
I have 1” polyurethane with 25mm plywood over it, a huge improvement over the old cement.
You can also screw things to it easily for temporary fixings, or permanent.
Stops the cold coming up and keeps the feet warm.

That is interesting, do you fit your lathe direct to the concrete, or is it also stood on the insulation?

[Johnw]

I would suggest Kingspan/Celotex and cutting to fit between the framing.It is best to foil tape the edges and use a vapour barrier. It would be much easier for an apex roof, and there would not be a need to ply leaving the frame visible.

[JohnHewes]

Hi, TT, I have the lathe screwed to the ply floor, which is fixed to the cement floor through the insulation with frame fixings.
John