Author Topic: New Workshop  (Read 17722 times)

Offline Tim Pettigrew

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #30 on: August 09, 2013, 05:42:22 PM »
What I haven't decided yet, is what to do inside, should I fill in the gaps with insulation of some kind and then cover with boarding?

Superb workshop! Definitely go for insulation as it will reduce the risk of annoying the neighbours with machine noise as well as making it habitable for winter working.  If you can afford it go for the foil backed insulation (fit between the studs, before fitting the boarding), which is best for thermal insulation.  I would also recommend that you use 18mm thick OSB grade 3 (Orientated Strand Board) for boarding out as it is cheaper than ply and still capable of supporting shelves etc. for storage.  If you are interested I can post some photos of how I have used these materials.

Tim
« Last Edit: August 09, 2013, 10:42:21 PM by Tim Pettigrew »

Offline The Bowler Hatted Turner

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #31 on: August 09, 2013, 06:24:48 PM »
I would certainly go for lining the insides. Have a look at the white faced hardboard in Wickes for use on the ceiling, you could use fibre glass insulation in the roof.
 I think you ought to supply us with a floor plan so that we can decide where you are going to put your machines ;D
A lovely shed, I'm green with envy.
Regards
John BHT

Offline Katchin

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #32 on: December 15, 2013, 04:26:42 PM »
Hi all, well I have finally put chisel to wood a few times, been months!
Having to relearn the basics all over again, bit that's okay.
I eventually decided against insulation, the costs would have simply been too much, and to be perfectly honest, will the fan heater and the oil filled radiator, it's like summer in there anyway, too hot.

John Simon Lawrenson

Offline Katchin

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #33 on: December 15, 2013, 04:32:44 PM »
I am having some lathe problems though. I'm getting 'wobble' and shift currently. I have taken the wheels and the height adjuster off, but that has only made it worse. I assume I will have to fix the lathe onto the wooden floor, but how? I have no access to underneath the floor its built on a solid concrete base after all.

John Simon Lawrenson

Offline Tim Pettigrew

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #34 on: December 15, 2013, 04:58:41 PM »
Hi Katchin - Having had similar problems in the past, I wonder if the problem is the wooden floor?  Are the floorboards supported by joists on the concrete (in which case they will definitely flex), or are the boards resting directly on the concrete?  If the latter then one possible option might be to cut holes in the boards so the lathe stand supports are resting directly on the concrete.

Another thought. Are there threaded holes in the stand legs to enable levelling screws to be inserted to ensure that all four legs are in firm contact with the floor?

Tim
« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 05:02:15 PM by Tim Pettigrew »

Offline Katchin

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #35 on: December 15, 2013, 05:19:37 PM »
Hi Tim,  yes all 4 legs have threaded holes,  however the lathe only came with 2 adjusters,  and 2 wheels,  shown below.  I fear the floor is wood,  most likely on joists,  the floor is also 3-4 inches higher than the concrete

« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 06:36:31 PM by Katchin »
John Simon Lawrenson

Offline MCB

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #36 on: December 15, 2013, 05:20:02 PM »
If there are no threaded holes, would  it be too difficult to drill and tap them?

Axminster sell Adjustable Machinery Feet; if I've  copied the url correctly, there's information here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-adjustable-machinery-feet

MCB

Offline Bellringer75

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #37 on: December 15, 2013, 07:32:06 PM »
It need to sit straight on the concrete 

Offline MCB

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #38 on: December 15, 2013, 07:47:52 PM »
Can you tell where the joists are under the floorboards? Perhaps there are screw holes for the screws fixing the boards to the joists.

Is  it feasible to put the feet of the lathe stand immediately above the joists and then screw through the boards into the joists with coachbolts?

MCB

Offline The Bowler Hatted Turner

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #39 on: December 15, 2013, 09:40:43 PM »
Hi Katchin,
               in your situation this is what I would do.
I would cut a hole in the wooden floor and cast using shuttering a concrete base the right height for your lathe so's that the lathe feet sit directly on the concrete. I would drill the holes in the feet a little bigger and use 12mm Rawbolts to fix the lathe down, using shims if needed to level it.
        Levelling the lathe with threaded rod is not really that good IMHO. This will take all the vibration out of the floor and on the odd occasion when you have an unbalanced piece it will make life easier. You may also find that the noise level is reduced.
Regards
John BHT

Offline Katchin

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #40 on: December 15, 2013, 09:45:52 PM »
Thanks all, I had a reeling somebody might suggest that BHT. I was hoping for an easy fix instead  ;D
oh well.
John Simon Lawrenson

Offline Doug Barratt

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #41 on: December 16, 2013, 08:54:20 AM »
You could try adding some weight to the stand, this is what I've done & it's worked very well.

The easiest & cheapest way is to drape a bag or 2 of builders sand etc over the mid-rail & see if it makes any difference. It'll only cost you a couple of quid to try & if it does help you can then come up with a more attractive solution for adding weight.
I ended up making a cupboard & drawers made from 2 sheets of 18mm MDF & a sheet of 16mm plywood, mounted with due care to the stand of my lathe it has really given stability to the lathe with the huge added bonus of loads of storage space & a flat surface on which to rest the chisels I'm using whilst turning.

Cheers.

Doug.

Offline Tim Pettigrew

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #42 on: December 16, 2013, 05:47:26 PM »
Hi John - you could adopt the (low cost) solution which works for me on a similar sized (midi?) lathe to yours.  I find that in a smallish workshop it is vital to have machines which can be moved out of the way or repositioned when not in use.

Basically this method consists of purchasing four braked swivel castors (50mm diameter wheels) each castor with a single threaded attachment hole which matches the existing thread in the base of the lathe stand (typically these will be M8 or M10 on your stand?).  These are cheaply available on EBAY.

All you need then are four compatible bolts which can be screwed through the existing threaded holes in the stand and into the threaded holes of the castors.  Fit the castors to the stand and simply push the lathe into position in the workshop.  The first photo shows the castor bolts screwed DOWN supporting the lathe in mobile mode.


After positioning the lathe, I either place some breeze-blocks or, as pictured below, some substantial timber battens beneath the stand which thereby maximises the support contact between stand and floor. The bolts on the castors are then screwed UP so that the stand is lowered and is supported by the breeze-blocks or (as here) the battens.  You could use more supports beneath the stand if required.



This method certainly works OK for me!

Hope this may help.

Tim
« Last Edit: December 16, 2013, 05:53:55 PM by Tim Pettigrew »

Offline Katchin

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2014, 07:48:03 AM »
Hi all,  still having really bad problems with bigger pieces of wood.  I've tried  coach bolts and heavy sand bags,  but still getting terrible vibrations.  The floor is the as thick as I first thought,  it's probably only an inch (less than the walls).  I'm guessing I have to start cutting holes in the floor and laying concrete now,  must say that thought does not  fill me with joy :-(
John Simon Lawrenson

Offline TWiG

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Re: New Workshop
« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2014, 07:34:39 PM »
Try fitting an angled brace , a piece of angle iron or wood ( or both ) attach one end as high as you can to the lathe then have the other end attached  to the floor a few feet from the lathe at 45- 60 degree angle this is simple trigonometry crude but effective  but be careful not to keep tripping over it . I use a lump of 4x2 jammed between the head stock and door jam sometimes when roughing out a big out of balance piece !! You could also have a strut , again fixed to a  high up point on lathe to a sturdy wall behind the lathe .  Terry....